I tried using the 3D World mounting jig and
found there wasn't enough space between the
mount and the lenses for my fingers.

This past weekend, I modified my own mounting
jig to handle the 80x140 plastic mounts. The
trouble is, I can't figure out how to make
them work for me :(

I've kind-of-sort-of made them work by ignoring
the built-in adhesive and using my RMM3D tape. I
have questions for you:

How does anyone use the built-in tape strips?
The adhesive grabs the film if it is uncovered
and I end up moving the chips if I try to
uncover it after positioning.

How do you get the first chip safely positioned?
The 52mm apertures leave me so little wiggle room
that if I don't have the first chip positioned
correctly, I can't shift the other enough to
get everything in the view behind the window.

I *want* to like these mounts. But unless I
can figure out how to use them, there is
going to be a large stack of them put up
for sale.

Can someone who has been successful in their
efforts with them share their techniques?
________________________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

John Thurston writes:

> Can someone who has been successful in their
> efforts with them share their techniques?

I, like you, have ignored the adhesive strips and used silver mylar tape
in the same fashion as I do with the cardboard mounts.

I cut my film with the plastic sleeve still on it and lay them on the
mount moving around until I get the general alignment and window
placement I am looking for. I mentally note where the chip lies using two
reference points on the bottom edge. I then remove that chip from the
sleeve and tape it down. I then remove the second chip and realign it to
the secured one, viewing in stereo as needed. I then tape it down and am
done.

Usually less than one or two minutes per image. That being said I have
only mounted a half dozen images in these mounts as I don't have my TL120
yet and these mounts apertures are a bit big for my Heidoscop chips.

Speaking of that I will put out a request again - I need a shutter spring
for my Heidoscop. If you know of one or a junker camera that someone
wants to sell cheap, please let me know.

Thanks,

David W. Kesner

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, John Thurston wrote:

> How does anyone use the built-in tape strips?
> The adhesive grabs the film if it is uncovered
> and I end up moving the chips if I try to
> uncover it after positioning.

This is the first time I heard of anyone having any problems with
them! Yes I use the strips, can't imagine why not. Using a roll of
tape is a pain in the butt. I wrote a short instruction guide for the
mounts, I'll see where I put it and post it on the group.

One of the best parts is that you ARE able to move the chips around
after you have exposed the adhesive strip. With the carboard mounts
that usually meant ripping the mount. The adhesive is just the right
amount of stickiness to allow for easy removal. Are you uncovering ALL
the strips and THEN moving the chip? Perhaps this is the problem. I
only uncover the bottom ones in the initial stage, then put the view
in the viewer without even snapping the top part on. Since horizontal
alignment is typically by the upper or lower ridge, I only have to
worry about window placement. When I'm happy I uncover the top and
snap on the cover. I was spending 20 minutes on a cardboard mount, but
now do the same in 2 or 3 minutes tops.

I never have to worry about tape goo on the film or on scissors, or
misaligning the tape and having to peel it off. I just can't see going
back!

Secondly, as stated before, do NOT use the included jig for mounting.
It is not a fully functional accessory!

Sam

Sam Smith wrote:

> ... Are you uncovering ALL
> the strips and THEN moving the chip?

No, I've attempted to uncover one side of one
set of tape strips (exactly one strip) before
positioning my first chip. As soon as the film
touches the tape, whamo, it's stuck. Then I
have to try to rip the film off the tape
without finger-printing or tearing it.

Are you mounting yours face-up or face-down?
I wonder if we're seeing a difference due to
inherent film-curl.

> I was spending 20 minutes on a cardboard mount, but
> now do the same in 2 or 3 minutes tops.

I am three to four minutes with my cardboard mounts
and most of that is spent choosing from among
the various aperture sizes.

I've only successfully mounted three views in plastic
(I'm defining "successfully" as finishing the process
without first throwing it across the room in frustration).
I have yet to risk one of my potentially "keeper"
images to the plastic mounts.
________________________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

I have looked at my TL120 side mounter that was sent all the way from
China which I paid something for and wondered what I was going to do
with it. It is too bright sometimes, not in good focus for me, only
vertical alignment lines and no movable window setting lines, some
complain of little working clearance, and now others of the sticky
surfaces of the mounts themselves. Last night I attempted to address
all these issues, and now I think I have a better slide mounter than my
SAM converted to MF, and also have a nice lighted viewer.

The easiest adjustment was the light output. By plugging in an
adjustable power source from Radio Shack, I can adjust the light
intensity. the light is very pleasant at 9 volts, a little dim at 7.5,
and the bright normal light at 12 volts. I am not a natural mounter as
many of you on this list and desire a gage. I like and use the plexi
gage included with the SAM mounter with vertical alignment lines(not
needed with the already scribed TL120 lines), and the at window lines.
To use this gage, I needed to raise the the glass slide holder of the
mounter. Thanks to Jon at 3D concepts, he had given me a few plastic
shims to help me make the MF slide surface for my SAM a couple years
ago. Turns out they were the perfect width and thickness if I doubled
them up and placed them at four locations. The glass slide holder on
the TL120 mounter has two registration pins that still engage the holes
and keep it in place. The SAM gage now will insert and slide easily
under the table. Now I can make slide adjustments the way I do with
35mm slides. Unfortunately the raised table places the viewer further
out of focus, but I needed to deal with that anyway. Turns out that the
lenses and supports are only glued to the mounter surface, so it only
took a few minutes of scoring with a razor knife along the base to set
it free. I found that raising it 1/2" put it in perfect focus for me,
so I just glued a double thickness of a 1/2" square wood rod from Home
Depot onto the base, and glued the lenses to it. Helps to have a C
clamp as you need to make sure the lenses are in vertical alignment(use
the scribed lines on the glass). If I was particular, I would have
looked for some Plexiglas to make a nicer appearance. Now I have good
mounter and a nice in-focus lighted viewer.

As far as the slide mounts, I thought of a possible work around. Mount
one chip on the adhesive of the mount. On the other half, expose one
adhesive strip and lay a Popsicle stick across it. You can adjust the
frame as you normally would and when set, just hold in place with your
finger, slide out the stick which the tape barely sticks to and press
down. There is no need to preview in a viewer since the mounter is the
viewer. Waiting for my first slides from the TL120 to return and will
try it out then. The raised lenses gave me about 3/8" more vertical
working room.

One problem with this mounter is the raised glass surfaces. It works
fine with the plastic mounts, but not with cardboard, or any other
apertures that 3D World might come out with. They would have to sell
different glass surfaces to accommodate them.

I will upload a couple pictures to the files section.

Look for my report this week as the first user of a new stereo product
with some MF applications.

BTW, I really like the TL120. The new grip on this new batch helps
handling the camera tremendously. I am mostly a 35mm guy and love the
convenience, speed, and low hassle of hand holding a camera. Having
metering ( which seems to agree with my S1 metering) and quick split
image focusing and previewing is really nice. Pushing Provia 1 stop
will probably be my normal procedure. The camera gets lighter with each
picture.

Dale Yingst