When I took the glass of the back of the camera,
look at what I saw

http://www.alaska.net/~thurston/images/FlareInside.JPG

Using the pictures Dale Yingst took of the
inside of his camera as a guide:
http://stereo.thurstons.us/TL120-inside.htm

I think I can identify the curved surface
with the reflection on it as the back end
of the lens barrel.

Would some other TL120 owners take a look
at this surface of their camera and see
how reflective it is? If we find them shiny,
it shouldn't be too difficult a thing to remedy!

Ok, this is my last post this evening.
Really.
________________________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

John Thurston writes:

> When I took the glass of the back of the camera,
> look at what I saw
>
> http://www.alaska.net/~thurston/images/FlareInside.JPG
>
> I think I can identify the curved surface
> with the reflection on it as the back end
> of the lens barrel.

This is the same problem I had with my original production RBT Macro
attachment. My "flare" wasn't this crescent shape but a fuzzy bright spot
in the center of the images. However it was coming from a reflection on
the mounting ring like that on your lens barrel. It took RBT two tries to
figure it out. The first time they flocked all the internal flat surfaces
and sent it back. That didn't fix the problem so back it went and they
determined it was the ring surface and flocked that. That did the trick.
As far as I know they are now doing this for all macro units. Sounds like
this is what is going to be needed for the TL120.

This isn't a good image, but here is where the flocking was applied in my
macro unit:

http://www.dddphotography.com/macroflare.jpg

I am expecting my TL120 soon and will report what I find.

Thanks,

David W. Kesner

I think John and Dave have the answer on the flare problem.
I remember the lenses having a polished inner ring and I bet a
little flat paint will correct it. Nice sleuthing.

I just mounted my first TL120 slides last night and it was a
real pleasure with my modified mounter. It only took me a
minute or two to mount each slide and it was such an easy and
clean operation. All I needed was the mounter, scissors,
mounts and a popsicle stick. I reveal the tape on the left
side and mount one chip. On the right side I reveal the top
tape and lay my stick across it. Then I position the right
chip and when set, hold it with one finger, remove the stick
and rub it across the top of the chip to seal it. Lastly, just
raise the bottom of the chip, use the stick to push the tape
backing off, press down and snap the other mount side on.
Those horizontal etched lines are really helpful and will
immediately let you know if you slipped during any of the
mounting. THe SAM bar that I slide underneath the etched
glass surface may not be needed by many but I like it. What is
strange to me is that I need reading glasses of about +1.75.
The mounter was out of focus for me out of the box yet the
viewers are in great focus for me. Does that mean that they
will be out of focus for younger eyes not needing reading
glasses?

I realize that most of you have your MF mounting procedures
down and will probably stick with them. I had been frustrated
myself with mounting in cardboard mounts with tape. Maybe I
just had not mounted enough to be comfortable or establish a
procedure. I like the precision and speed of the SAM 35mm
mounter and I think I have the same with the TL120 mounter.
Give it a try.

I wonder if cardboard MF mounts might soon be made in the
Chinese specs any time soon? Also I wonder if they may add
some other mount sizes, primarily 645 in horizontal and
vertical? They would have to make other glass drop in mounter
panels, but they would only cost a few dollars.

My first pictures are really sharp.

Dale Yingst

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, John Thurston
wrote:

>
> When I took the glass of the back of the camera,
> look at what I saw
>
> http://www.alaska.net/~thurston/images/FlareInside.JPG
>
>

I have just removed my lens board from the TL120 and found the same
shiny surface on the back of the lens barrel. I would welcome any
advice on exactly what to do. I don't have any special tools for
taking the lens ring itself off to try to give it a flat black paint
job. Are special tools needed or is there an easy way to get it
unscrewed? It will need a steady hand with the paintbrush otherwise.

regards

Harry.
hcalderbank@bigpond.com

hcalderbank wrote:

> --- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, John Thurston
> wrote:
>> When I took the glass of the back of the camera,
>> look at what I saw

> I would welcome any
> advice on exactly what to do.

I'm thinking I will try to apply a bit of flocking
to this surface rather than painting it.

Of course, I haven't actually taken my lens
board off yet, so I can't really say how
practical that idea is. I'm also not sure
I have a long enough strip of flocking
material left :( I whacked most of mine up
when working inside my TDC Vivid.
________________________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

I have so much flocking material, I could wallpaper the flocking house
with it. Edmund dumped it on me. If ANYONE wants some squares, give me
your flocking address and I'll put some in the flocking mail. It's the
non-adhesive variety, but with a little glue works flocking great!

Flockingly Yours,

Sam

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, John Thurston wrote:

I'm also not sure
> I have a long enough strip of flocking
> material left :( I whacked most of mine up
> when working inside my TDC Vivid.

Harry writes:

> I have just removed my lens board from the TL120 and found the same
> shiny surface on the back of the lens barrel. I would welcome any
> advice on exactly what to do.

RBT's decision for this problem was to use flocking paper. First on all
the flat surfaces and then latter on the lens attachment ring. It is just
a little (? 1/8th inch) strip ran the circumference of the inner ring
surface. This was done maybe late last century (1990's) and has held up
perfectly *{;-)

Like Sam I have plenty of flocking paper around, but mine is adhesive
backed, making it less messy to apply.

If my TL120 would ever get here I could offer more detailed advice and
maybe even show photos of how I did it.

Thanks,

David W. Kesner

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "David W. Kesner" wrote:

> RBT's decision for this problem was to use flocking paper. First on

all

> the flat surfaces and then latter on the lens attachment ring. It is

just

> a little (? 1/8th inch) strip ran the circumference of the inner

ring

> surface. This was done maybe late last century (1990's) and has held

up

> perfectly *{;-)

Thanks David,

I will dig through the supplies and see if I have any flocking paper
left. I did look at applying some flat black paint but it looks like
it needs the extra light absorbing qualities of flocking. I just
picked up another four rolls of film today from the developer and the
flare was very noticable on a couple of bright daylight shots.
Otherwise, the results are wonderful.

Good luck with your newly arrived TL120. Have fun!

regards,

Harry.
hcalderbank@bigpond.com

Harry writes:

> I will dig through the supplies and see if I have any flocking paper left.

Actually what I have is light absorbing foam and not flocking. I like it
better as there is no chance of the flocking shedding and getting on the
lenses and other places.

Here are some places where you can get it online:

http://www.micro-tools.com/Merchant2/e_restore.htm

I bought mine mine from eBay. Here is the item number:

110061814106

Thanks,

David W. Kesner

Someone on Photo3D mentioned a 12 volt light panel, 1/4" thin. It was
the right length, but not high enough. I thought it might not matter and
would put some reflectors around it. Well it fit perfectly inside the
diffuser shelf and I anticipated only about an hour to put in a switch
and a couple wire nuts. Turning it on before installing, the light was
perfect but it was so directional and there was too much light cutoff in
the area that it was short vertically. If it was 1/2" taller, it would
have been perfect and a super easy, almost tape in installation. Live
and learn.

DAle Yingst