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Subject: Comments on Spud Light Leak
Date: 2007-05-31 22:57:34
From: David Damico

Ted, your questioning makes sense. I am using 120 Provia 100 asa. The light leak traces you mentioned, both order and location, are what I am experiencing. I will make sure the next roll I shoot will be wound tighter. I don't doubt that the camera itself may be contributing to the leakage but the leaks occur on the bottom of the film when viewing normally which would mean it was at the top of the film as it is in the camera. Wouldn't it be unusual for light to get in from the bottom of the camera going up? The inside is flocked so theoretically, there is no surface for light to reflect off of.

The canisters are like normal 35mm canisters (black plastic) except they are made for 120 film. I bought several at a local Houston camera store last week.

Thanks again.

david

On 5/31/07, Edwin Baskin <efbaskin@hotmail.com> wrote:

Are the light leaks on the edge of the film? Is so, does the greater amount of leakage occur on the later shots and does the film bunch up to one side of the roll as it is wound? If all of this is true, it could be that the film is not winding up evenly on the take-up spool.

I routinely handle my exposed film in direct sunlight with no problem, because the film winds up evenly. This leaves at least 5 layers of nothing but paper on the outside of the exposed roll which is more than sufficient to protect the film inside.

And, just to confirm, you are using 120 roll film with paper backing and not 220 roll film with no paper backing?

And this is probably a stupid question, but when I think of placing film in a cannister, I think of loading it in a tank/cannister in order to develop the film myself. This isn't what you're talking about, is it? If so, then you'll definitely need a change bag or a totally light proof environment of some sort.

Ted

Subject: Re: Comments on Spud Light Leak
Date: 2007-06-01 08:49:48
From: Edwin Baskin

If your film is winding unevenly, then winding the film tighter may not be enough. You may need to adjust the steel rollers inside the camera, making sure that they're parallel to both the film plane and to the spools at their respective sides. It's intuitive. So, I won't go into detail.

Eyeballing the evenness is sufficient, but I've found that the rollers sometimes shift out of place as they're being tightened down. So, you may need to watch that.

If you haven't done so already, you may want to flock completely around tongue and groove seal of the camera body and the two doors. I flock the body instead of the doors. (I'm talking about the thin 45 degree angled edge where the doors touch the body of the camera.)

Ted

To: MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com
From: ddamico361@gmail.com
Date: Fri, 1 Jun 2007 00:57:23 -0400
Subject: [MF3D-group] Comments on Spud Light Leak

Ted, your questioning makes sense. I am using 120 Provia 100 asa. The light leak traces you mentioned, both order and location, are what I am experiencing. I will make sure the next roll I shoot will be wound tighter. I don't doubt that the camera itself may be contributing to the leakage but the leaks occur on the bottom of the film when viewing normally which would mean it was at the top of the film as it is in the camera. Wouldn't it be unusual for light to get in from the bottom of the camera going up? The inside is flocked so theoretically, there is no surface for light to reflect off of.

The canisters are like normal 35mm canisters (black plastic) except they are made for 120 film. I bought several at a local Houston camera store last week.

Thanks again.

david

On 5/31/07, Edwin Baskin <efbaskin@hotmail. com> wrote:

Are the light leaks on the edge of the film? Is so, does the greater amount of leakage occur on the later shots and does the film bunch up to one side of the roll as it is wound? If all of this is true, it could be that the film is not winding up evenly on the take-up spool.

I routinely handle my exposed film in direct sunlight with no problem, because the film winds up evenly. This leaves at least 5 layers of nothing but paper on the outside of the exposed roll which is more than sufficient to protect the film inside.

And, just to confirm, you are using 120 roll film with paper backing and not 220 roll film with no paper backing?

And this is probably a stupid question, but when I think of placing film in a cannister, I think of loading it in a tank/cannister in order to develop the film myself. This isn't what you're talking about, is it? If so, then you'll definitely need a change bag or a totally light proof environment of some sort.

Ted

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Subject: Re: Comments on Spud Light Leak
Date: 2007-06-01 11:00:09
From: John Thurston

Edwin Baskin wrote:

> If your film is winding unevenly, then winding the
> film tighter may not be enough. You may need to
> adjust the steel rollers inside the camera, making
> sure that they're parallel to both the film plane
> and to the spools at their respective sides. It's
> intuitive. So, I won't go into detail.

I found that my film scrunched even with the rollers
parallel to the film plane. Further investigation
revealed that the take-up spool sat just a little
lower in the camera than the supply spool.

I added a cardboard "washer" under the take-up spool
to raise it 1/32" (.75mm) and let it run level with
the supply-side.
--
John Thurston
Juneau Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us