Hello. I am sure many of the MF3D experts are in
Boise enjoying lots of 3d exposure, but I am seeking
information.

I have several different kinds of MF3D mounts, from
Q-Vu to RMM to Berezin to the new black cardboard ones
from 3dStereo Store to the plastic ones from the
Tl-120.

So far, I prefer paper to plastic (its just a tactile
thing, the opposite is true with my 35mm stereo where
I like RBT's).

1. Does anyone think that RBT might come up with a
MF3D mount?

2. Of the paper mounts, which ones have members had
the best results?

3. Are there any particular techniques or styles of
mounting (other than non-twisted, non-tilted, and
mounted in proper L-R orientation!) that is available?


I checked the files section, but didn't see anything.
I didn't want to reinvent the wheel and hope to get
some collective wisdom from our group.

Shoot more stereo!

-kp

Dr. Kevin Pernicano
Louisville, KY, USA (Home of the Kentucky Derby)



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Dr. Kevin writes:

> So far, I prefer paper to plastic (its just a tactile
> thing, the opposite is true with my 35mm stereo where
> I like RBT's).

Each of these mounts have their strong and weak points. I find that I am
liking the 3D World plastic mounts best at this time. I would however
like to see improvements on them such as different window apertures and
less "bowing".

> 1. Does anyone think that RBT might come up with a
> MF3D mount?

No. They don't make a medium format camera and the cost of tooling could
not be recovered with such a small market.

> 2. Of the paper mounts, which ones have members had
> the best results?

When I was using them I like the black RMM paper mounts best. This was
the later production run when Paul Talbot changed manufacturers and they
wer more opaque.

> 3. Are there any particular techniques or styles of
> mounting (other than non-twisted, non-tilted, and
> mounted in proper L-R orientation!) that is available?

I find that the image size of MF film allows me to mount without any aids
or jigs. I am a practioner of "mount to the window" and not "mount with
set infinity points". This means that I must make sure that when I take
an image it does not have excessive deviation/separation by having
objects too close and too far in the same image. I find it much easier to
take a correct image to begin with than to try and correct problems when
mounting. I know this is not always possible and certain image swill
require more work when mounting to be viewable.

Mounting this way allows me to find the closest object in the image and
place it at or just behind the physical window created by the mount's
apertures and not worry about using a guide to measure infinity
separation.

I first cut out my individual chips while they are still in their plastic
sleeves. I then roughly place them on the mounts to get the general
window placement. I mentally take note of one of the chips looking for
two reference points along the bottom to align the horizontal and one
reference point along the inside edge to align the window. I then remove
the chip from the plastic sleeve and tape it down making sure my
alignment points are set. I then take the other chip out of the plastic
and using the same reference points align that chip and tape it down.
Check in a viewer to make sure it is correct and if not remove the second
chip and realign it.

If anyone is interested I could demonstrate this at the MF meeting at the
convention. Just let me know so I can bring my light box and some sample
images.

Thanks,

David W. Kesner