I just finished mounting a couple of rolls of film from my TL120,
using the 3D World mounting jig and the "Sam Smith" mounts. It has
been an unexpected fast and easy experience. And I think I haven't
made as many of my usual mounting errors.

To give an idea of which versions of the equipment I'm using - I
received the camera around February 2007 and the focusing mounting jig
in the middle of June 2007.

Summary:
- I'm getting better results for way less effort
- I don't hate mounting MF3D anymore
- The focusing jig is a good viewer (not good enough)

Disclaimer:
- I'm still learning mounting for stereo...
- I use cardboad mounts too because it gives me options
- The mounting system works very well for mounting slides taken with
their camera and with their (Revised by Sam Smith) mounts. It doesn't
work with cardboard mounts, though I'm sure it could be modified for
this purpose.
- I end up with upside down slides, e.g. the provided label ends up
on the back of the mount. I mount the chips "right side up" and the
mounts are designed for mounting the chips the other "right side up".

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Observations:

The "mounting half" of the plastic mount has horizontal ridges and two
sided tape, above and below the two aperatures. The top and bottom
ridges are at a different distance to the aperature, so you have a
choice which to align to. There are circles in between the ridges
which also help with alignment.

I use the ridge closer to the aperature, otherwise I can see black
film at the bottom of the chip where there could be image.

There are clips on the jig that can be moved out of the way to also
help keep the chips from floating around. I don't use them, the
adhesive does the job. The clips can be easily removed from the jig.

The viewing assembly, with the viewing lenses and focusing knob, can
flip back out of your way while inserting the mount and the chips.
NOTE the jig will fall over when the viewing assembly is swung back,
so you have to be careful.

The platform that holds/illuminates the mount, and the viewing
assembly, together can swing forward and back on the base to make
viewing (e.g. focusable viewer) more comforatable.

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My simplified mounting procedure:

Separate the mount to get at the "mounting half".

Peel the paper off the adhesive at the tops of the mount.

Release the catch and swing the viewing assembly out of the way.

Snap the "mounting half" of the mount into the jig

Align the top of the left film chip with the top ridge of the left
aperature and align right edge of chip with the middle of the circle
that is between the aperatures.
(make sure the chip is square with the top and bottom ridges)

Align the top of the right film chip with the top ridge of the right
aperature and left edge with the middle of the circle.
(make sure the chip is square with the top and bottom ridges)

Swing the viewing assembly back up ("click") and take a look to make
sure it looks right.

Tweak.

Release the catch and swing the viewing assembly out of the way
(careful not to let it tip over).

Peel the paper from the bottom of the mount and tack the chips on,
being careful to keep things aligned.

Pop out the mount.

Snap on the top of the mount, compressed air, and put it all in a
protective sleeve.

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More Notes:
Having all the visual reference points (ridges, circles, aperature)
make it "easy" to get the chips aligned properly.

If I align the chips so their edges are touching, the near point
deviation is about 61mm. Knowing this, and having lots of visual
references on the mount, gives me the information I need to choose my
framing and to adjust the distance between the near/far points.

Stopping the mount and chips from floating around removes the pain in
mounting 3D. I haven't tried anything that works better.