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Subject: MF-3D Film Choices
Date: 2008-04-08 08:59:42
From: LeRoy Barco
MF-3D Film Choices Ok, I took the plunge and got the TL-120.

The sample images are great, but I realize they are multi-generational.

The TL-120 manual has recommended film choices, but I find them more
confusing than helpful. For instance, Provia 400 is listed as “extremely
fine grain” but Astia is listed as “very fine grain.”

I like Astia and going beyond the idea of just “good enough” due to MF
having lots of film area. Not that “good enough” isn’t ok, too.

But higher film speeds, even with increased grain, are tempting.

I know folk like certain films for reasons other than fineness of grain but
that IS a factor for me.

For instance, in 35mm, Kodachrome 200 was fun once but drove me crazy
w/grain and Ektachome 200 wasn’t much better.

I guess my queries are...

What do MF-3Ders think of Astia vs. other similar films?

In MF, what speed/grain advantages/drawbacks are present in higher speed
films?

Are even lower speed films a winner versus the current crop of 100 speed
plus films?

My reference viewer is the TL-120 included STL viewer.

Thanks in advance for your help for a not-so newbie to 3-D but new to MF-3D.

LeRoy

Subject: Re: MF-3D Film Choices
Date: 2008-04-08 09:48:10
From: Brian Reynolds
LeRoy Barco wrote:
> I guess my queries are...
>
> What do MF-3Ders think of Astia vs. other similar films?

I come out on the Kodak side of the Fuji vs. Kodak debate. I just
don't like the color balance from Fuji films, and I especially don't
like Velvia.

> In MF, what speed/grain advantages/drawbacks are present in higher
> speed films?

I currently shoot Kodak 100G with a +1 push to EI 200 (Exposure Index
200). The grain is better than Kodak E200, the speed is good, and the
film is a little less expensive. If I want something faster I shoot
Kodak E200 and either do a +1 push to EI 320 or a +2 push to EI 640
(see the Kodak Tech Pub E-28). Kodak also suggests an EI of 800 for a
+3 push, but I don't like to push it that much.

> Are even lower speed films a winner versus the current crop of 100
> speed plus films?

I'm usually looking for all the speed I can get. If I want slower I
shoot E100G without pushing it.

--
Brian Reynolds | "It's just like flying a spaceship.
reynolds@panix.com | You push some buttons and see
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/ | what happens." -- Zapp Brannigan
NAR# 54438 |
Subject: Re: MF-3D Film Choices
Date: 2008-04-08 09:56:58
From: Aaron Muderick
Grain is measured by the RMS number.  Higher numbers mean more grain.  Lower numbers mean less grain.

Astia 100F is completely neutral color.  I find it to be a little flat unless scanning and manipulating.  RMS of 7.
Provia 100F has a slight color boost.  RMS of 8.
Provia 400X is an ISO 400 speed film that can be pushed two stops (with a decrease in contrast and increase in grain).  Color is similar to Provia 100F in terms of saturation.  RMS of 11
Velvia 100 has a major boost in the blues and greens and may not be complementary to caucasian skin tones.  RMS of 8.
Fortia SP has ludicrous saturation.RMS of 10.

FYI, Kodachrome 200 had an RMS of 16.

All of the RMS numbers on the Fuji films are pretty darn good.

Using the MF stereo viewer, I can't see any grain in Provia 100F.  I can just barely see it if I'm looking for it in Provia 400X. 

Have fun.

Aaron


LeRoy Barco wrote:

Ok, I took the plunge and got the TL-120.

The sample images are great, but I realize they are multi-generational.

The TL-120 manual has recommended film choices, but I find them more
confusing than helpful. For instance, Provia 400 is listed as “extremely
fine grain” but Astia is listed as “very fine grain.”

I like Astia and going beyond the idea of just “good enough” due to MF
having lots of film area. Not that “good enough” isn’t ok, too.

But higher film speeds, even with increased grain, are tempting.

I know folk like certain films for reasons other than fineness of grain but
that IS a factor for me.

For instance, in 35mm, Kodachrome 200 was fun once but drove me crazy
w/grain and Ektachome 200 wasn’t much better.

I guess my queries are...

What do MF-3Ders think of Astia vs. other similar films?

In MF, what speed/grain advantages/drawback s are present in higher speed
films?

Are even lower speed films a winner versus the current crop of 100 speed
plus films?

My reference viewer is the TL-120 included STL viewer.

Thanks in advance for your help for a not-so newbie to 3-D but new to MF-3D.

LeRoy

Subject: Re: MF-3D Film Choices
Date: 2008-04-08 11:18:03
From: John Thurston
LeRoy Barco wrote:

> What do MF-3Ders think of Astia vs. other similar films?

I have never liked the colors I've gotten from Astia. Every
time I use it I look at the resulting images and think, "Why
did I bother?".

Provia 100 is my "normal" film. I know many here dislike the
film, but it commonly meets my price-point and imaging needs.

I have some Provia 400X film hanging on my wall. I need to
see how the images came out. I have seen a few samples from
other artists that impressed me. If mine turn out as well, I
look forward to having a reliable 400 speed film to use.

(I didn't really like the colors I got from my Provia 400F,
but I used it for flash images because it was the only
viable choice I had. I'm hoping that 400X can also become my
film for flash photography.)

> In MF, what speed/grain advantages/drawbacks are present
> in higher speed films?

For me, the significant factors are that faster film means
A) smaller apertures at the same shutter speeds

B) better depth coverage with the same flash

With the TL-120 I now have reliable shutter speeds less than
1/100. With iso 400 film, I can shoot moving water at f/16
or f/22 and have something other than cotton-candy :)

--
John Thurston
Juneau Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us
Subject: Re: MF-3D Film Choices
Date: 2008-04-09 07:49:24
From: coronet3d
--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, John Thurston wrote:
> I have never liked the colors I've gotten from Astia. Every
> time I use it I look at the resulting images and think, "Why
> did I bother?".
I'm a big fan of Astia for its "pretty" look. The skys are beautiful
and it delivers for skin tones. I and others have found that you
should meter at EI 80 when shooting Astia. I don't know why Fuji
doesn't publicise this. If you plan on shooting greenery, you should
use Velvia 100 (no "F"). I tried the revered Velvia 50 some years ago
and found the film speed too restrictive (ditto for Kodachrome 25).
Kodachrome 64 is my favorite slide film but unfortunately Kodak and
Dwyane's won't make or run it in an 120 size.
Steve
Subject: Re: MF-3D Film Choices
Date: 2008-04-09 07:52:22
From: coronet3d
--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, Brian Reynolds wrote:
> I currently shoot Kodak 100G with a +1 push to EI 200 (Exposure
Index
> 200). The grain is better than Kodak E200, the speed is good, and
the
> film is a little less expensive. If I want something faster I
shoot
> Kodak E200 and either do a +1 push to EI 320 or a +2 push to EI 640
> (see the Kodak Tech Pub E-28). Kodak also suggests an EI of 800
for a
> +3 push, but I don't like to push it that much.
>
I've found that E200 really delivers and that that extra stop really
makes the difference, especially if you want to use a Sputnik
without a tripod. I've never tried pushing E100G.

> I'm usually looking for all the speed I can get. If I want slower
I
> shoot E100G without pushing it.
>
Have you tried E100GX? I find it excels at architecture photography.
Steve
Subject: Re: MF-3D Film Choices
Date: 2008-04-09 10:41:53
From: Brian Reynolds
Steve wrote:
> --- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, Brian Reynolds wrote:
> > I currently shoot Kodak 100G with a +1 push to EI 200 (Exposure
> > Index 200). The grain is better than Kodak E200, the speed is
> > good, and the film is a little less expensive. If I want
> > something faster I shoot Kodak E200 and either do a +1 push to EI
> > 320 or a +2 push to EI 640 (see the Kodak Tech Pub E-28). Kodak
> > also suggests an EI of 800 for a +3 push, but I don't like to push
> > it that much.
> >
> I've found that E200 really delivers and that that extra stop really
> makes the difference, especially if you want to use a Sputnik
> without a tripod. I've never tried pushing E100G.

I've found that pushing E100G gives me the speed of unpushed E200 with
better grain. It helps that my lab doesn't charge for pushing or
pulling.

> > I'm usually looking for all the speed I can get. If I want slower
> > I shoot E100G without pushing it.
> >
> Have you tried E100GX? I find it excels at architecture photography.

I prefer the neutral color balance of E100G.

--
Brian Reynolds | "It's just like flying a spaceship.
reynolds@panix.com | You push some buttons and see
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/ | what happens." -- Zapp Brannigan
NAR# 54438 |