Hello all,

Last week I received my second TL-120 and went outside to try some hypers. As I advanced the film in the new camera I immediately sensed that something was wrong. But because the numbers on the back paper kept advancing normally, I did some wishful thinking and hope for the best. Unfortunately the results were catastrophics as you can see on the following URL :

http://www.patrickdube.ca/photos/HyperTest1/

Does anyone ever had this problem ? I tested an other roll and it was ok. I guess it was only a faulty roll... I hope so.

Next problem: my other TL-120 (bought in sep. 2006) right shutter opens twice as long as the left shutter, whatever the speed. I thought switching the batteries might help (wishful thinking again...) but it did not. Is there any possibility of having this camera repaired somewhere in North America instead of sending it back to China? I still can use this camera in studio (with flash) without any problem but shooting outdoor will prevent me from doing "in camera dupe" hyperstereo views.


Patrick
Quebec City, Canada
_________________________________________________________________
Enter today for your chance to win $1000 a day—today until May 12th. Learn more at SignInAndWIN.ca
http://g.msn.ca/ca55/215

Patrick,

Did you have a cable release on the camera at the time? One
possibility is that the shutter was pressed down as you advanced the
film. HAvinbg a cable release lock down would cause the shutter to
fire every 1/4 turn.

Sam

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Dube wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> Last week I received my second TL-120 and went outside to try some
hypers. As I advanced the film in the new camera I immediately sensed
that something was wrong. But because the numbers on the back paper
kept advancing normally, I did some wishful thinking and hope for the
best. Unfortunately the results were catastrophics as you can see on
the following URL :
>
> http://www.patrickdube.ca/photos/HyperTest1/
>
> Does anyone ever had this problem ? I tested an other roll and it
was ok. I guess it was only a faulty roll... I hope so.
>
> Next problem: my other TL-120 (bought in sep. 2006) right shutter
opens twice as long as the left shutter, whatever the speed. I thought
switching the batteries might help (wishful thinking again...) but it
did not. Is there any possibility of having this camera repaired
somewhere in North America instead of sending it back to China? I
still can use this camera in studio (with flash) without any problem
but shooting outdoor will prevent me from doing "in camera dupe"
hyperstereo views.
>
>
> Patrick
> Quebec City, Canada
> _________________________________________________________________
> Enter today for your chance to win $1000 a day—today until May 12th.
Learn more at SignInAndWIN.ca
> http://g.msn.ca/ca55/215
>

Yeah, I remember now. I also had problem with my cable release. I used a dual cable release made for Hasselblad bellows and the 2 cables were too strech apart (2 feet wide) which caused erratic behaviour. Thanks for the information Sam.
 
Is there such a thing as a cable release extension cord ? I'd like to try 3 to 4 feet stereobases.

Patrick

---

To: MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com
From: groups@stereoscopia.com
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 18:12:32 +0000
Subject: [MF3D-group] Re: TL-120 problems

Patrick,

Did you have a cable release on the camera at the time? One
possibility is that the shutter was pressed down as you advanced the
film. HAvinbg a cable release lock down would cause the shutter to
fire every 1/4 turn.

Sam

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogro ups.com, Patrick Dube wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> Last week I received my second TL-120 and went outside to try some
hypers. As I advanced the film in the new camera I immediately sensed
that something was wrong. But because the numbers on the back paper
kept advancing normally, I did some wishful thinking and hope for the
best. Unfortunately the results were catastrophics as you can see on
the following URL :
>
> http://www.patrickd ube.ca/photos/ HyperTest1/
>
> Does anyone ever had this problem ? I tested an other roll and it
was ok. I guess it was only a faulty roll... I hope so.
>
> Next problem: my other TL-120 (bought in sep. 2006) right shutter
opens twice as long as the left shutter, whatever the speed. I thought
switching the batteries might help (wishful thinking again...) but it
did not. Is there any possibility of having this camera repaired
somewhere in North America instead of sending it back to China? I
still can use this camera in studio (with flash) without any problem
but shooting outdoor will prevent me from doing "in camera dupe"
hyperstereo views.
>
>
> Patrick
> Quebec City, Canada
> ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _
> Enter today for your chance to win $1000 a day—today until May 12th.
Learn more at SignInAndWIN. ca
> http://g.msn. ca/ca55/215
>

---

Sign in now! Windows Live Messenger is giving you a chance to win $1000 a day until May 12th Check out SignInAndWIN.ca today!

Patrick Dube wrote:

> Sam wrote:
> > Patrick,Did you have a cable release on the camera at the time?
>
> Yeah, I remember now. I also had problem with my cable release. I
> used a dual cable release made for Hasselblad bellows and the 2
> cables were too strech apart (2 feet wide) which caused erratic
> behaviour. Thanks for the information Sam.
>
> Is there such a thing as a cable release extension cord ? I'd like
> to try 3 to 4 feet stereobases.

You could get a pair of bulb releases like:

<http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/545650-REG/General_Brand_SR765_Air_Bulb_Release_.html>

<http://preview.tinyurl.com/4c225n>

and a tee fitting from a hobby shop or pet fish store. Cut the tubes
near the bulbs (leave a little slack), secure one tube on each end of
the tee and the bulb in the middle.

--
Brian Reynolds | "It's just like flying a spaceship.
reynolds@panix.com | You push some buttons and see
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/ | what happens." -- Zapp Brannigan
NAR# 54438 |

Patrick Dube wrote:

> Is there such a thing as a cable release extension cord ?
> I'd like to try 3 to 4 feet stereobases.

You could try an air release (aka bulb release)
http://preview.tinyurl.com/6dyuou
________________________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

Sam Smith wrote:

> Did you have a cable release on the camera at the time?
> One possibility is that the shutter was pressed down as
> you advanced the film. Havinbg a cable release lock down
> would cause the shutter to fire every 1/4 turn.

I've also had the weight of the cable-release be sufficient
to tip a shutter button over enough to release the shutter.
It didn't have to be locked, it just had to be there and
bounce in the right direction.

I'm pretty sure I have seen that behavior on one of my TL120s
when I had a cable release attached but I didn't have the
camera tripod mounted.
________________________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

Wow, 20' Air Release. That gives me some ideas for super hypers.

Thanks!

Patrick





----------------------------------------

> To: MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com
> From: juneau3d@thurstons.us
> Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 13:51:58 -0800
> Subject: [MF3D-group] remote shutter release [was: TL-120 problems]
>
> Patrick Dube wrote:
>
>> Is there such a thing as a cable release extension cord ?
>> I'd like to try 3 to 4 feet stereobases.
>
> You could try an air release (aka bulb release)
> http://preview.tinyurl.com/6dyuou
> ________________________________________
> John Thurston
> Juneau, Alaska

_________________________________________________________________
Enter today for your chance to win $1000 a day—today until May 12th. Learn more at SignInAndWIN.ca
http://g.msn.ca/ca55/215

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Dube wrote:

>
>
> Wow, 20' Air Release. That gives me some ideas for super hypers.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Patrick

Hi Patrick,

I love the sound of the enthusiasm you have for hypers. I used to take
a lot of hypers with my old Canon Eos 35mm rig which I could fire
reliably with an infrared remote. This was good for up to twenty feet
of separation and well synched to around 1/250th. Beyond that, I often
put one camera on ten second delay and then sprinted for the other
camera which then gave me whatever distance I could run in just under
ten seconds to fire the second camera in synch with the beeps from the
first one. I did manage some good 60 feet hypers with this method (I
was a slow runner!).

None of this information is good for the TL120 though, unless......
(stupid question time...) is there such a thing as an infrared remote
control device to fit a mechanical shutter release?

Failing that (apart from the air release of course) a partner in crime
is always good to have too and with a little practice with counting
down, some good synch can be achieved that way at any distance.

regards,

Harry Calderbank

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "Harry Calderbank"
wrote:

>
> (stupid question time...) is there such a thing as an infrared remote
> control device to fit a mechanical shutter release?

Must have been a stupid question...................silly old me!

cheers

Harry Calderbank

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "Harry Calderbank"
wrote:

>
> --- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "Harry Calderbank"
> wrote:
> >
> > (stupid question time...) is there such a thing as an infrared remote
> > control device to fit a mechanical shutter release?
>
> Must have been a stupid question...................silly old me!
>
> cheers
>
> Harry Calderbank
>

Harry,

I don't think it is a stupid question, just that no one seems to have
an answer. I have been wanting to take a stereo picture of a ground
hog (wood chuck) setting at his hole. ( He always goes in before I can
get close enough.) Could not find any type of remote shutter release
except the air bulb type. I bought one but the "receiver bulb?" is
too big at the camera end and it will not fit my Sputnik. I have
looked for a cable release extension with no productive results. It
seems I always want something they don't make.


Chuck Holzner

> (stupid question time...) is there such a thing as an infrared remote
> control device to fit a mechanical shutter release?

Not that I know of. The infrared remote is an electronic device and it is
well-suited for cameras with eletric shutter release sysetms. To use it
with a mechanical release cable, you need some type of relay to convert
the electrical signal to mechanical energy.

> I bought one but the "receiver bulb?" is
> too big at the camera end and it will not fit my Sputnik. I have
> looked for a cable release extension with no productive results. It
> seems I always want something they don't make.

What is the problem? I sell an extension cable release for $10:
http://home.att.net/~sales3d/WExtensionCableRelease.htm

I also sell a bubble cable release for $12:
http://home.att.net/~sales3d/WBubbleRelease.htm

George

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "Charles F. Holzner" <3D4me@...>
wrote:

> Harry,
>
> I don't think it is a stupid question, just that no one seems to

have

> an answer. I have been wanting to take a stereo picture of a ground
> hog (wood chuck) setting at his hole. ( He always goes in before I

can

> get close enough.) Could not find any type of remote shutter release
> except the air bulb type. I bought one but the "receiver bulb?" is
> too big at the camera end and it will not fit my Sputnik. I have
> looked for a cable release extension with no productive results. It
> seems I always want something they don't make.
>
>
> Chuck Holzner
>

Chuck,

That sounds like a great little wildlife project you have. You are
probably right. This is one of those wishes that we have for a piece
of equipment that doesn't exist but would need a bit of
experimentation to make something ourselves. I'm keen enough to have
a play around and see what I can think of or come up with, even if it
ends up just being a crude way of linking one cable release to
another as a basic way of extending the length.

I'll let you know if I come up with anything at all.

cheers,

Harry Calderbank

>
> That sounds like a great little wildlife project you have. You are
> probably right. This is one of those wishes that we have for a piece
> of equipment that doesn't exist but would need a bit of
> experimentation to make something ourselves.

Remote shutter triggers have existed for
some time.... but they were never cheap, IIRC, about $2K+... a USA
company made them...

Hello Harry,

> is there such a thing as an infrared remote control device to fit a
> mechanical shutter release?

You can do something like a friend of mine did:

He is a stereo photographer and a model airplane flyer. He used one of
the remote servos used to control model planes to mechanially trip the
shutter on the digital camera he has mounted to his plane for aerial
hyper shots.

Of course he already had the remote control for his plane so it was just
a matter of programming one of the control switches to activate the
servo. Not sure what options you would have for a single servo, but it is
probably worth looking into. RC or Radio Controlled models are really
popular in the US right now and you can find all sorts of parts for them
from pretty inexpensive to quite expensive.

Here is a link to a listing of website stores that sell these things:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/listings/rcpsmfgs.html

Hope that helps,

David W. Kesner

David W. Kesner wrote:

> > is there such a thing as an infrared remote control device to fit a
> > mechanical shutter release?
>
> You can do something like a friend of mine did:
>
> He is a stereo photographer and a model airplane flyer. He used one of
> the remote servos used to control model planes to mechanially trip the
> shutter on the digital camera he has mounted to his plane for aerial
> hyper shots.
>
> Of course he already had the remote control for his plane so it was just
> a matter of programming one of the control switches to activate the
> servo. Not sure what options you would have for a single servo, but it is
> probably worth looking into. RC or Radio Controlled models are really
> popular in the US right now and you can find all sorts of parts for them
> from pretty inexpensive to quite expensive.

You could get a simple two channel R/C radio set meant for ground use
(cars and boats). It will include a transmitter, a receiver, a couple
of servos, and matching crystals. Buy a second receiver on the same
frequency, and battery packs and chargers for the receivers. Make a
simple mechanical linkage to connect the servos to a pair of normal
cable releases. Connect the servos to the same channel on both
receivers. Turn on the transmitter first, and then the receivers.
When you move the control on the transmitter both servos should move
in the same direction. You'll need to test how closely synchronized
this all is, and be careful about slack in the mechanical set up. A
more sophisticated radio will let you set the travel range and
direction, and end points of the servos so that you don't have to
worry about pushing the cable releases too far.

Do not use the air frequencies. If you accidentally turn on your
transmitter near someone else who is flying a plane you could cause a
lot of damage, or possibly injury.

If you want to go really cheap, then get a pair of R/C cars that only
allow you to go forward and turn. The controls are often simple push
buttons. You can then take apart the cars and use the radios for
firing the shutters. However, I don't know if the actuators in the
cheap R/C cars are strong enough to fire the shutters.

There is also a device called a servo exerciser that lets you run a
R/C servo through its range of motion without using a radio.

Another option is to drive a servo from a micro-controller, but that's
getting a bit involved.

--
Brian Reynolds | "It's just like flying a spaceship.
reynolds@panix.com | You push some buttons and see
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/ | what happens." -- Zapp Brannigan
NAR# 54438 |

George wrote:

>
> What is the problem? I sell an extension cable release for $10:
> http://home.att.net/~sales3d/WExtensionCableRelease.htm
>
> I also sell a bubble cable release for $12:
> http://home.att.net/~sales3d/WBubbleRelease.htm
>
> George
>
>

I can't seem to get on either of those URLs.
Will try later.

Chuck

They work fine for me.

You can also go from the front door of my web page: www.drt3d.com
and look for these items under "Stereo Recording", "Useful accessories for
most (Stereo Cameras".

- George

>> What is the problem? I sell an extension cable release for $10:
>> http://home.att.net/~sales3d/WExtensionCableRelease.htm
>>
>> I also sell a bubble cable release for $12:
>> http://home.att.net/~sales3d/WBubbleRelease.htm
>>
>> George
>>
>>
> I can't seem to get on either of those URLs.
> Will try later.

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "David W. Kesner"
wrote:

>
> Hello Harry,
>
> > is there such a thing as an infrared remote control device to fit

a

> > mechanical shutter release?
>
> You can do something like a friend of mine did:
>
> He is a stereo photographer and a model airplane flyer. He used one

of

> the remote servos used to control model planes to mechanially trip

the

> shutter on the digital camera he has mounted to his plane for

aerial

> hyper shots.
>
> Of course he already had the remote control for his plane so it was

just

> a matter of programming one of the control switches to activate the
> servo. Not sure what options you would have for a single servo, but

it is

> probably worth looking into. RC or Radio Controlled models are

really

> popular in the US right now and you can find all sorts of parts for

them

> from pretty inexpensive to quite expensive.
>
> Here is a link to a listing of website stores that sell these

things:

>
> http://www3.towerhobbies.com/listings/rcpsmfgs.html
>
> Hope that helps,
>
> David W. Kesner
>

To David and Brian and others,

Excellent stuff guys. Thanks for the info and ideas. I'll look into
the radio control option.

cheers

Harry