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Subject: Red vs. Clear window on TL-120
Date: 2008-07-22 19:55:16
From: Dr. Kevin Pernicano
I think when I get home, I will replace the red window on the back of one of my tl-120's with a clear circular filter. I will let anyone know if I have any light leaks, but given our discussion, I hypothesise not, given the evidence to date.

I also do not recall ever seeing any red fogging on any of the slide images I have done with the TL120, even though I left the metal slide open for several hours in the hot south carolina sun while hiking one afternoon.

I'd only put on a clear filter to keep out the dust.

I will keep everyone posted!



Dr. Kevin Pernicano
Louisville, KY, USA (Home of the Kentucky Derby)


--- On Wed, 7/16/08, MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com wrote:

> From: MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [MF3D-group] Digest Number 543
> To: MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Wednesday, July 16, 2008, 1:13 PM
> Medium Format Stereo Photography
>
>
>
>
>
> Medium Format Stereo Photography
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>
> Messages In This Digest (4
> Messages)
>
>
>
>
> 1a.
>
> Re: red window [was: getting this for the TL120]
> From:
> Brian Reynolds
>
>
> 2a.
>
> Re: getting this for the TL120
> From:
> dlopp2000
> 2b.
>
> Re: getting this for the TL120
> From:
> John Thurston
> 2c.
>
> Re: getting this for the TL120
> From:
> dlopp2000
>
>
>
> View All Topics | Create New Topic
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> Messages
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> 1a.
>
>
>
> Re: red window [was: getting this for the TL120]
>
>
> Posted by: "Brian Reynolds"
> mf3d@reynolds.users.panix.com
>
>
> Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:43 pm (PDT)
>
>
> Chuck Holzner wrote:
>
> > > dlopp2000 wrote:
>
> > > > According to Mr Calderbank, the TL-120 does
> contain a red
>
> > > > window.
>
> > > >
>
> > > > I am still waiting to read of a valid reason
> for the continued
>
> > > > use of the red window system, in this year
> of 2008.
>
> >
>
> > It seems that at least one person in this group
>
> > find the RED window used for film advancement in
>
> > the TL-120 objectionable. Apparently, mostly
>
> > because it is in the traditional color of RED.
>
>
>
> The point is that for a panchromatic film (technically a
> B&W film, but
>
> color slide film is certainly sensitive to the full
> spectrum) a red
>
> window is no less likely to cause light leaks than a clear
> window.
>
> Back when people used orthochromatic B&W film a red window
> made sense
>
> because the film wasn't sensitive to the red light that
> the window let
>
> through.
>
>
>
> > Some solutions to this "problem" could be:
>
> >
>
> [snip]
>
>
>
> > 3) A mechanical counter coupled with a friction
>
> > wheel on the film could be used to measure the
>
> > film movement and stop the advance when needed.
>
> > This would eliminate the need for the window and
>
> > allow the use of 220 size film doubling the
>
> > number of shots taken between film loadings.
>
> >
>
> > 4) In this modern year of 2008, no doubt, a
>
> > counter wheel could be coupled electronically and
>
> > advance a counter that would indicate how far the
>
> > film had advanced. It could be used to stop an
>
> > electric film advance that was started when the
>
> > shutter closed and would assure proper film
>
> > advancement in total darkness as well as assure
>
> > the film was advanced for each shot to prevent
>
> > double exposures.
>
>
>
> With regards to 3 & 4, when Keith Canham was first
> designing his
>
> motorized 6x17 rollfilm back he told me that it was
> motorized (and the
>
> advance was monitored by a microcontroller) because that
> was cheaper
>
> than designing and building a geared advance.
>
>
>
> > All of these improvements could be incorporated
>
> > at some increase in cost. Of course some people
>
> > just may opt for less expense and a traditional
>
> > RED window.
>
>
>
> A clear window would allow people to more easily see the
> frame
>
> numbers, and traditionalists could simply tape some red
> cellophane to
>
> the inside of the camera back.
>
>
>
> --
>
> Brian Reynolds | "It's just like
> flying a spaceship.
>
> reynolds@panix. com | You push some buttons
> and see
>
> http://www.panix. com/~reynolds/ | what happens." --
> Zapp Brannigan
>
> NAR# 54438 |
>
>
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> Messages in this topic
> (20)
>
>
>
> 2a.
>
>
>
> Re: getting this for the TL120
>
> Posted by: "dlopp2000"
> dlopp@rainier-web.com
>
>
> dlopp2000
>
>
>
> Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:21 pm (PDT)
>
>
>
>
>
>
> I recently asked:
>
>
>
> Can anyone offer a valid reason for not using a
>
> plain, clear window ?
>
>
>
> Apparently, there is not a valid reason for not
>
> using a plain clear window.
>
>
>
> I have used both a Rolleidoscop and a Heidoscop
>
> camera.
>
>
>
> Both cameras utilized a red window which was about
>
> 3 inches in width.
>
>
>
> For reasons unknown to me, the cameras were not de-
>
> signed to be used with 120 film, and would only offer
>
> 5 stereo pairs per roll of 120 film.
>
>
>
> After removing the red celluloid window, I was able
>
> re-index the back of the cameras, allowing me to
>
> produce 6 stereo pairs on a roll of 120 film, which
>
> required a film advance that was accurate to within
>
> 1/16th of an inch. The numbers on the back of each
>
> roll of 120 film allowed this degree of accuracy.
>
>
>
> My experience has shown that the opaque black paper
>
> backing on consumer level color slide film, Kodak and
>
> Fuji, can withstand 4 hours of exposure to direct
>
> sunlight.
>
>
>
> There were, and are many roll film cameras, (Hasselblad,
>
> Kodak, Rollei, Ansco, Hasselblad, Fuji, Mamiya, Bronica,
>
> etc), that allow a precision film advance without using
>
> a red window, when advancing the film.
>
>
>
> The patents have expired, and I see no reason to re-invent
>
> the wheel.
>
>
>
> IMO, only Brian has offered a viable solution.
>
>
>
> DON
>
>
>
> >
>
>
>
>
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> Messages in this topic
> (20)
>
> 2b.
>
>
>
> Re: getting this for the TL120
>
> Posted by: "John Thurston"
> juneau3d@thurstons.us
>
>
> juneau99803
>
>
>
> Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:48 pm (PDT)
>
>
> dlopp2000 wrote:
>
> > I have used both a Rolleidoscop and a Heidoscop
>
> > camera.
>
> >
>
> > Both cameras utilized a red window which was about
>
> > 3 inches in width.
>
> >
>
> > For reasons unknown to me, the cameras were not de-
>
> > signed to be used with 120 film, and would only
> offer
>
> > 5 stereo pairs per roll of 120 film.
>
>
>
> I think these cameras pre-date the 6x6 markings on what we
>
> now know as 120 film.
>
>
>
> The instructions for my Rolleidoscop indicate it is made to
>
>
> use "B2 6x9" film. And indeed, the window on the
> the back of
>
> my 'scop lines up with the 6x9 markings on my 120 film
> which
>
> accounts for it's odd advance sequence of lining up
>
> different numbers at different places.
>
>
>
> When used with a B2 "Six-spool", it would produce
> four
>
> pairs. When used with a B2 "Eight-spool" , it
> would produce
>
> five pairs plus a half-pair.
>
>
>
> > After removing the red celluloid window, I was able
>
> > re-index the back of the cameras, allowing me to
>
> > produce 6 stereo pairs on a roll of 120 film, which
>
>
> > required a film advance that was accurate to within
>
> > 1/16th of an inch. The numbers on the back of each
>
> > roll of 120 film allowed this degree of accuracy.
>
>
>
> While I understand that you are dead-set against the red
>
> plastic in the window, Don, your same advance sequence can
>
> be used with it in place. I used this advance sequence for
>
>
> several rolls before I decided to narrow my film apertures
>
> and eliminate my tendency to run off the front or back of
>
> the film and overlap images.
>
> http://stereo. thurstons. us/stock_ advance.htm
>
>
>
> I also thought about punching a new hole in the camera back
>
>
> which would line up with the 6x6 markings on the paper. I
>
> decided that was too much work and just made a new
>
> paper-label to put under the existing door.
>
> --
>
> John Thurston
>
> Juneau Alaska
>
> http://stereo. thurstons. us
>
>
>
>
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> Messages in this topic
> (20)
>
> 2c.
>
>
>
> Re: getting this for the TL120
>
> Posted by: "dlopp2000"
> dlopp@rainier-web.com
>
>
> dlopp2000
>
>
>
> Wed Jul 16, 2008 6:41 am (PDT)
>
>
>
>
> Based on the history, I believe that 120 roll film did have
> 6 x 6
>
> markings, at the time my 1934 Heidoscop, and my 1937
> Roleidoscop
>
> were manufactured.
>
>
>
> In 1934, the German), Eichapfel Noviflex reflex camera
> took
>
> 6 x 6 images, with the aid of a red window, on 120 film.
>
>
>
> In 1935, the Reflex-Korelle SLR camera took 6 x 6 images on
> 120
>
> film, with the aid of a red window.
>
>
>
> In 1936, the Olympus Camera Co. of Japan produced a 6 x 6
> folder
>
> camera, the Semi-Olympus Model 1, which took 12 pictures on
> 120
>
> roll film, with the aid of a red window.
>
>
>
> The first Rollei, the Rolleiflex 1, a (6 x 6), camera did
> use a red
>
> window to aid in advancing the 120 film properly. It was
> first pro-
>
> duced in 1929.
>
>
>
> My understanding is that the Rolleiflex, (6 x 6), TLR was
> designed,
>
> by Franke & Heidecke, following the financial success of
> their roll
>
> film stereo cameras.
>
>
>
> I realize that German camera manufacturers, in the
> 1930's, were not
>
> prone to make changes unless prodded by their competition.
> Franke &
>
> Heidecke could have easily changed the position of the red
> window
>
> in their stereo camera's, in the 1930's, to take
> advantage of the
>
> 6 x 6 markings on the available 120 film.
>
>
>
> I can only guess as to why F & H did not alter their stereo
> cameras
>
> to operate with the 6 x 6 marked 120 roll film.
>
>
>
> The advertisements in the National Geographic magazine,
> (1938), cited
>
> the soft shutter release on the Roleidoscop camera.
>
>
>
> DON
>
>
>
> friendly camera's in the 1950's.
>
>
>
> A side point is that on all of the Heidoscop and
> Rolleidoscop
>
> camera's that I have seen, contained Z Tessar lenses
> manufactured
>
> in the year, 1927.
>
>
>
> DON
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Subject: Re: Red vs. Clear window on TL-120
Date: 2008-07-23 12:20:00
From: Chuck Holzner
"Dr. Kevin Pernicano" wrote:

> I think when I get home, I will replace the red
window on the back of one of my tl-120's with a
clear >circular filter. I will let anyone know
if I have any light leaks, but given our
discussion, I hypothesise not, >given the
evidence to date.


I was wondering if you have been having trouble
reading the frame numbers when advancing the
film?
I guess you have or there would be no reason to
go through the procedure and risk damaging the
camera.

Chuck Holzner
Subject: Re: Red vs. Clear window on TL-120
Date: 2008-07-23 16:54:33
From: John Thurston
Dr. Kevin Pernicano wrote:
> I think when I get home, I will replace the red window on
> the back of one of my tl-120's with a clear circular
> filter. I will let anyone know if I have any light
> leaks, but given our discussion, I hypothesise not, given
> the evidence to date.
>
> I also do not recall ever seeing any red fogging on any
> of the slide images I have done with the TL120, even
> though I left the metal slide open for several hours in
> the hot south carolina sun while hiking one afternoon.

On my original TL120, I found a bit of pink fogging on a few
slides of a couple early rolls and I attributed it to light
leaking through the advance window. I made this
determination based on:

A) my memory of when I had the window open/closed
B) the streaking appeared only on the right chip
C) it didn't occur when I had been composing in the
shadows even though I had the window open

I removed the pressure plate from the camera-back and
installed a foam seal around the advance window (between the
plastic camera-back and the pressure plate). I have seen no
pink fogging on any rolls from this camera since that day.

I did, a couple weeks ago, notice that my _newer_ TL120 has
a factory-installed foam seal between the pressure plate and
the camera-back around the advance window. If you have a
TL120, take a peek between the pressure plate and door. Is
there a bit of black foam visible in there?

I fail to understand the religious fervor with which some
here attack or defend the red tint in the advance-window.
Having had the pressure plate off my camera to get to the
advance-window, I can say that replacing the red-window with
clear carries a very small risk of camera damage. Replace it
if you like, leave it in if it doesn't bother you. Take the
plastic out entirely if you aren't concerned with dust,
dirt, moisture or other bits of the environment getting to
the back of your film.
--
John Thurston
Juneau Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us