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Subject: 3D World Illuminated viewer
Date: 2008-09-13 16:37:10
From: John Thurston
First, thank you George for shipping one of your new 3D World
illuminated viewers. It's really spiffy.

Second, Dave Kesner and Mike Davis have already offered their
assessment of it so I will not try to repeat those things
which have already been said.

Third, I _like it_. I'm ordering another one :)


Aesthetics on the viewer are a little stark but I'm willing
to accept that after seeing what my slides look like in it.
The short version is that this is everything the 3D World
STL viewer (aka MFPV) is and more. If you liked the 75mm
achromats in the MFPV, they're in here. If you didn't like
the MFPV because it offered poor eye-relief for glasses
wearers, your problems are solved. If you really wished the
MFPV had a light in it so you didn't have to hold your face
up to a desk lamp, you'll be happy. If you were sad that the
MFPV was fixed at infinity focus . . . . oh, you found the
weakness of the new viewer. While it has adjustable focus,
the range of focus stops at infinity.

It has been mentioned here that it is possible to remove the
lens retaining ring and insert a paper or plastic shim to
move the lens a bit farther out. The thickness of the
possible shim is restricted by how few threads you are
willing to leave for your retaining ring to grab. It has
also been mentioned that fixing this problem will be
difficult for 3D World because it will likely require new
molds to be made.

Today, I've had my viewer apart into all of its constituent
parts and I think I've found another way to adjust the range
of focus. I've got a camera full of pictures and will post
them to the web as soon as I get enough time to write them
up, but here is the textual explanation.

Each lens is held in an aluminum barrel by the previously
mentioned threaded retaining ring. These aluminum barrels
are _threaded_ into the viewer's focusing cones. There is
plenty of depth available to adjust the lenses past infinity
by unscrewing these barrels from their cones, inserting a
shim and tightening the barrels again. That is what I have
just done and here's how you can.

1) Remove the lens retaining ring
2) Tip the viewer over and let the lens drop out
(remember which way the lens came out)
3) Grasp the grey focusing cone and use a rubber jar opener
to loosen the threaded end of the lens barrel. Don't try to
unscrew by twisting against the viewer body. Work against
the focusing cone.
4) Insert your preferred shimming material
5) Thread the lens barrel back into the focusing cone
and tighten it
6) Reinstall the lens

I used a piece of 12 gauge copper wire which moved my lenses
out 2mm. The wire could be painted but I actually think the
copper stripe looks pretty cool :)

________________________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us
Subject: Re: 3D World Illuminated viewer
Date: 2008-09-13 17:29:18
From: John Thurston
John Thurston wrote:
- snip -

> Each lens is held in an aluminum barrel by the previously
> mentioned threaded retaining ring. These aluminum barrels
> are _threaded_ into the viewer's focusing cones. There is
> plenty of depth available to adjust the lenses past infinity
> by unscrewing these barrels from their cones, inserting a
> shim and tightening the barrels again.

- snip -

> I used a piece of 12 gauge copper wire which moved my lenses
> out 2mm. The wire could be painted but I actually think the
> copper stripe looks pretty cool :)

I've slapped a quick snapshot (29KB) out there so you can see
what I mean:
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/8333/img7303640vg7.jpg
________________________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us
Subject: 3D World Illuminated viewer - Thurston's 1st Mod
Date: 2008-09-13 18:36:36
From: Michael Davis

John,

At 06:29 PM 9/13/2008, you wrote:
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/8333/img7303640vg7.jpg

That's saaweeet! 

You're a serious hacker, but I'm thinking this is something I might actually be able to do.  I'm off the garage.

Thanks!

Mike Davis
(A consumer who expects everything to be "turn-key.")

Subject: Re: 3D World Illuminated viewer - Thurston's 1st Mod
Date: 2008-09-13 19:01:02
From: John Thurston
Michael Davis wrote:

> You're a serious hacker, but I'm thinking this is something I might
> actually be able to do. I'm off the garage.

I used a piece of 12 gauge copper wire from some Romex, which
got me 2mm. If you go to 10 gauge you'll pick up 2.6mm. If
you smack it a bit with a hammer to flatten it (the wire, not
the viewer!), you can widen it a little bit more.

My sample isn't very pretty because I can't get to the Romex
on the shelf in my garage right now. . . . I had to take a
few inches off a wire hanging out of my living room wall.
How's that for dedication?
________________________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us
Subject: Re: 3D World Illuminated viewer - Thurston's 1st Mod
Date: 2008-09-14 11:39:18
From: John Hart
--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, John Thurston wrote:
> I used a piece of 12 gauge copper wire from some Romex, which
> got me 2mm. If you go to 10 gauge you'll pick up 2.6mm. If
> you smack it a bit with a hammer to flatten it (the wire, not
> the viewer!), you can widen it a little bit more.

Nice John! If you could get material any size you want, what is the
MAXIMUM you could shim the lenses out?

Thanks,

JH
Subject: Re: 3D World Illuminated viewer - Thurston's 1st Mod
Date: 2008-09-14 12:58:46
From: John Thurston
John Hart wrote:
> --- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, John Thurston
> wrote:
>> I used a piece of 12 gauge copper wire from some Romex,
>> which got me 2mm. If you go to 10 gauge you'll pick up
>> 2.6mm. If you smack it a bit with a hammer to flatten it
>> (the wire, not the viewer!), you can widen it a little bit
>> more.
>
> Nice John! If you could get material any size you want, what
> is the MAXIMUM you could shim the lenses out?

I think the maximum shim _I'd_ be comfortable using here is
3.6mm. Of course, there's no reason this couldn't be combined
with some shims behind the lenses as has been previously described.
_________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
Subject: 3D World Illuminated viewer - Thurston's 1st Mod (not so easy)
Date: 2008-09-14 13:05:36
From: Michael Davis
John,

I couldn't find anything in my garage that comes close to what I
need, stranded 8-gauge, never mind 10 or 12 gauge solid. Then it
occurred to me to try using some plastic string from my electric
weed-eater. It's neon-orange (not as appealing as copper), but the
refill package says it's 0.080 inch or 0.2 cm (2mm), and it's square
in cross-section, so it should stay put nicely.

Problem: I apparently have neither the tools, the skill, or perhaps,
the determination to separate the lens cups from the cones!

I don't know how you did it, but I've tried using my bare fingers, a
rubber, grip-enhancing thing that's made for taking lids off of jars,
my photo filter wrenches, and I even tried using a pair
of channel-lock pliers, using big rubber bands to protect the
finish. I've tried everything short of allowing my channel-lock
pliers to bight right into the aluminum - I can NOT separate the lens
seats from the cones. (And I've tried turning them clockwise in
addition to counterclockwise, just in case the threads were reversed,
but that didn't do the trick either.) I've thrown in the towel. Arrrgh!

Do tell: Precisely HOW did you do it? :-)

Thanks,

Mike Davis
Subject: Re: 3D World Illuminated viewer - Thurston's 1st Mod (not so easy)
Date: 2008-09-14 13:42:36
From: John Thurston
Michael Davis wrote:
> I couldn't find anything in my garage that comes close to what I
> need, stranded 8-gauge, never mind 10 or 12 gauge solid. Then it
> occurred to me to try using some plastic string from my electric
> weed-eater. It's neon-orange (not as appealing as copper), but the
> refill package says it's 0.080 inch or 0.2 cm (2mm), and it's square
> in cross-section, so it should stay put nicely.

The square cross section is a good idea, but it may be too
springy to stay in place. When shimming behind the lenses,
springiness is an asset because the barrel walls will constrain
your shim. When shimming between the barrel and cone, rigidity
is your friend because there is nothing to keep the shimming
material ring-shaped. That's why I chose to try the copper wire;
it would stay in its ring-shape while I tightened everything up.

> Problem: I apparently have neither the tools, the skill, or perhaps,
> the determination to separate the lens cups from the cones!
- frustration snipped -
> Do tell: Precisely HOW did you do it? :-)

I'll admit they are tight, but they really do unscrew. I have to
admit that when I first removed the lens barrels from the cones I
had them out of the viewer so I was able to get a really good
grip on them.

If I had to take them out of a new viewer and I didn't want to
take the viewer apart, I'd probably try a strap wrench around the
focusing cone and my rubber jar opener on the barrel.
http://tinyurl.com/5d3c7p

Do you have a teenage son with stronger hands?
_________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
Subject: 3D World Illuminated viewer - Thurston's 1st Mod (easier than I tho
Date: 2008-09-14 22:07:53
From: Michael Davis

Hey John,

At 02:42 PM 9/14/2008, you wrote:

If I had to take them out of a new viewer and I didn't want to
take the viewer apart, I'd probably try a strap wrench around the
focusing cone and my rubber jar opener on the barrel.
http://tinyurl.com/5d3c7p

I'd forgotten I had those (that very same pair of strap wrenches) in my tool chest.  It took me a while to find them, but the smaller of the two did the trick - thanks! 

I overcame the tendency of the neon-orange trimmer string to uncurl by just press-fitting it into a gap made small enough to hold it in place.  After getting it pressed in all the way around, I put the strap wrench on and tightened the lens barrels a bit further.  The string is in there snug now. 

I can't say the orange stripes look as nice as your copper wire, but that extra 2mm of focus range made an immediately improvement for my eyes.  I'm not racking the lenses all the way out now and I'm content that I personally don't need any additional travel, but that doesn't diminish my conviction that the focus range needs to be extended further still to handle a larger population than it does currently.

Thanks again for the tip!

Mike Davis


Subject: Re: 3D World Illuminated viewer (focusing)
Date: 2008-09-15 10:41:48
From: depthcam
--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, John Thurston
wrote:
>
> John Thurston wrote:
> > I used a piece of 12 gauge copper wire which moved my lenses
> > out 2mm. The wire could be painted but I actually think the
> > copper stripe looks pretty cool :)
>
> I've slapped a quick snapshot (29KB) out there so you can see
> what I mean:
> http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/8333/img7303640vg7.jpg


Absolutely brilliant !

Now, that is exactly the kind of modification that 3D World could
immediately implement. They could have black anodized aluminium
rings made that could be added during assembly of the oculars. That
would immediately solve the focusing problem.

Mike, maybe that is something you could suggest to them if you
haven't already done so...

Francois