After getting no response on people's experience with the 3D Holga
camera I decided to splurge and spend the $130 (with shipping from
China) for the camera and viewer and 10 mounts. It all arrived on
Thursday. I shot my first roll of Fujichrome 400ASA (the recommended
ASA for the camera) on Sat. And here's a little report for those who
might be curious;

First Impressions;

Undoubtedly this is the LIGHTEST, smallest "easiest" MF 3D camera I
have ever seen or played with - smaller/lighter than the Sputnik, WAY
smaller than a TL-120. So that makes it a great 'carry around' MF 3D
camera. Of course what you sacrifice for the weight/size is quality
(more on that later).

I won't bore you with all the 'tech' details as they are available on
the web, but it's a twined Holga - 2x 60mm lenses, with a shutter
speed of about 1/100th, the aperture is either f8 or f11 or f13
depending on whom you believe - I have no way to effectively test it
but I would say it's definitely closer to f13 or higher as at ASA 400
in partly cloudy weather I was getting roughly the kinds of exposures
I got with a sputnik at f16+1/125shutter on ASA 100 film in bright
sun. The camera also has a 'bulb' shutter speed setting which I did
not try. The camera also has two independent four color (white, red,
green, blue) flashes built-in operated by 4 AA batteries. I have not
tried these yet.

The camera control is all independent for each lens which is one of
the 'major' drawbacks. The focus on one of my lenses is much looser
than on the other, I think I might try a rubber hand to 'couple' them
while keeping the camera back open and focusing on some smoked glass
and see if this works but it's just an idea at this point.

The trigger/shutter button is thankfully one for both lenses so it
works like a sputnik that way.

The 'viewfinder' is just a basic viewhole in the middle of the camera,
I stopped using it after the second shot - except for one portrait I
tried. The camera is really a point/shoot MF 3D camera.

Really easy to load, the back pops off in seconds with two seemingly
flimsy clamps and I was worried that they might come open while
handling but they did not (I wasn't too rough with it, but still it
seems that unless you secure these with tape there's a chance for
accidental opening). The film winds easily and since there's no
coupling of film/shutter you don't have to wind to double expose, but
that's not a big deal; I'm used to that from having used Sputniks.

So now the question; how does it look? I have to confess based on my
over-all impression of the camera as I handled it I wasn't expecting
much. But, to my surprise, all the images I shot came out sharp and
with 'more or less' equal focus for l/r views. The biggest draw back
of the camera is the quality of the lenses - there is a lot of edge
distortion (barrel distortion, I guess it is called due to the quality
of the lenses?). So much so that when looking at anything except the
center of the image the effect is noticeably distracting. This is not
like looking at stuff shot with a TL-120 where your eyes can roam the
frame. But the subject in the center of frame was as sharp as most of
the sputniks I've seen with perhaps a few exceptions. I think the
shots might look better cropped in slightly but I have not tried this.
Out of the six pairs I shot 2 were slightly underexposed (unfamiliar
with the exposure/camera) but the other 4 were all viewable, 'usable'
shots - nothing I would 'write home about' - but that has to do with
subject matter as well as anything technical. One small note on the
Holga 3D mounts; they seemed at first just like the TL-120 mounts BUT
they have little pins - that makes them easier to push together and
stay together. Maybe the newer Tl-120 mounts are the same (I have not
seen any in a while) but it makes mounting a snap.

The viewer that comes in the kit is just like old TL-120 views but
black and a little more compact; I think they are even the same
lenses; I have a TL-120 silver (original) viewer and the views look
the same in the black Holga viewer as in the TL-120 silver one.

Conclusions? Well, I'm not giving up a TL-120 for this (duh!) but I
think I'm going to keep this Holga, keep it loaded with film (probably
400ASA, but I do want to try a 100ASA just for fun) and keep it with
me as much as I can (in the car maybe) cause it's light/fast/cheap -
if it gets lost or stolen I won't feel too bad but I might get a
'candid' shot here or there where I would not have taken with another
camera. I kept thinking I would do this with my sputnik but never did
cause it seems more 'fussy' - a lot more to tinker with before you
shoot (shutter/aperture/focus - which you don't really have to do on
this one - for better or worse). If I can get the lenses 'coupled' I
will be able to pick this up quickly set 'ballpark' focus with one
twist, point and shoot. Done. The shots won't be perfect but I might
get a candid worth keeping... that's the plan.

vladimir

vlagal57 wrote:

> . . . One small note on the
> Holga 3D mounts; they seemed at first just like the TL-120 mounts BUT
> they have little pins - that makes them easier to push together and
> stay together. Maybe the newer Tl-120 mounts are the same (I have not
> seen any in a while) but it makes mounting a snap.

Can you give us some dimensions on Holga mounts?
The "new" 3D-World mounts:
Have six pins on one side and matting holes on the other
Are 80*140mm
Have 52mm apertures spaced at 62mm

The "old" 3D-World mounts:
Have a ridge/valley arrangement to hold them together
Are 80*140mm
Have 52mm apertures spaced at 65mm
Should be destroyed on sight

--
John Thurston
Juneau Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

Vladamir,

What you have described is just what I would expect from the 3D Holga. I own a Holga 120 (not stereo!), and these are actually cult cameras renowned for the edge fall-off and vignetting, as well as for the peculiar color handling they sometimes exhibit.

Holga nuts expect to have to tape up their camera to avoid light leaks after loading. Also to hold on those two flimsy clips that keep the back from falling off. We also normally place a hinged black tape flap over the red number window on the real of the camera so that panchromatic and color films won't be fogged. A Holga picture has its own "look," and many folks really love that look as a sort of counter to the ultra-sharp modern digicam look. The bulb setting is great for making tripod shots in low light and at night.

I don't own one of the Holgas with the built in multicolor flashes...I just strap an old Vivitar 283 flash to the shoe. My Holga comes with interchangeable back masks so you can shoot either 6x6 or 4.5x6.

By the way, I shoot Fuji 800 in my Holga. Here are the shots from a single roll from my Holga: http://picasaweb.google.com/danmouer/Holgapix#

Dan


vlagal57 wrote:

After getting no response on people's experience with the 3D Holga
camera I decided to splurge and spend the $130 (with shipping from
China) for the camera and viewer and 10 mounts. It all arrived on
Thursday. I shot my first roll of Fujichrome 400ASA (the recommended
ASA for the camera) on Sat. And here's a little report for those who
might be curious;

First Impressions;

Undoubtedly this is the LIGHTEST, smallest "easiest" MF 3D camera I
have ever seen or played with - smaller/lighter than the Sputnik, WAY
smaller than a TL-120. So that makes it a great 'carry around' MF 3D
camera. Of course what you sacrifice for the weight/size is quality
(more on that later).

I won't bore you with all the 'tech' details as they are available on
the web, but it's a twined Holga - 2x 60mm lenses, with a shutter
speed of about 1/100th, the aperture is either f8 or f11 or f13
depending on whom you believe - I have no way to effectively test it
but I would say it's definitely closer to f13 or higher as at ASA 400
in partly cloudy weather I was getting roughly the kinds of exposures
I got with a sputnik at f16+1/125shutter on ASA 100 film in bright
sun. The camera also has a 'bulb' shutter speed setting which I did
not try. The camera also has two independent four color (white, red,
green, blue) flashes built-in operated by 4 AA batteries. I have not
tried these yet.

The camera control is all independent for each lens which is one of
the 'major' drawbacks. The focus on one of my lenses is much looser
than on the other, I think I might try a rubber hand to 'couple' them
while keeping the camera back open and focusing on some smoked glass
and see if this works but it's just an idea at this point.

The trigger/shutter button is thankfully one for both lenses so it
works like a sputnik that way.

The 'viewfinder' is just a basic viewhole in the middle of the camera,
I stopped using it after the second shot - except for one portrait I
tried. The camera is really a point/shoot MF 3D camera.

Really easy to load, the back pops off in seconds with two seemingly
flimsy clamps and I was worried that they might come open while
handling but they did not (I wasn't too rough with it, but still it
seems that unless you secure these with tape there's a chance for
accidental opening). The film winds easily and since there's no
coupling of film/shutter you don't have to wind to double expose, but
that's not a big deal; I'm used to that from having used Sputniks.

So now the question; how does it look? I have to confess based on my
over-all impression of the camera as I handled it I wasn't expecting
much. But, to my surprise, all the images I shot came out sharp and
with 'more or less' equal focus for l/r views. The biggest draw back
of the camera is the quality of the lenses - there is a lot of edge
distortion (barrel distortion, I guess it is called due to the quality
of the lenses?). So much so that when looking at anything except the
center of the image the effect is noticeably distracting. This is not
like looking at stuff shot with a TL-120 where your eyes can roam the
frame. But the subject in the center of frame was as sharp as most of
the sputniks I've seen with perhaps a few exceptions. I think the
shots might look better cropped in slightly but I have not tried this.
Out of the six pairs I shot 2 were slightly underexposed (unfamiliar
with the exposure/camera) but the other 4 were all viewable, 'usable'
shots - nothing I would 'write home about' - but that has to do with
subject matter as well as anything technical. One small note on the
Holga 3D mounts; they seemed at first just like the TL-120 mounts BUT
they have little pins - that makes them easier to push together and
stay together. Maybe the newer Tl-120 mounts are the same (I have not
seen any in a while) but it makes mounting a snap.

The viewer that comes in the kit is just like old TL-120 views but
black and a little more compact; I think they are even the same
lenses; I have a TL-120 silver (original) viewer and the views look
the same in the black Holga viewer as in the TL-120 silver one.

Conclusions? Well, I'm not giving up a TL-120 for this (duh!) but I
think I'm going to keep this Holga, keep it loaded with film (probably
400ASA, but I do want to try a 100ASA just for fun) and keep it with
me as much as I can (in the car maybe) cause it's light/fast/cheap -
if it gets lost or stolen I won't feel too bad but I might get a
'candid' shot here or there where I would not have taken with another
camera. I kept thinking I would do this with my sputnik but never did
cause it seems more 'fussy' - a lot more to tinker with before you
shoot (shutter/aperture/ focus - which you don't really have to do on
this one - for better or worse). If I can get the lenses 'coupled' I
will be able to pick this up quickly set 'ballpark' focus with one
twist, point and shoot. Done. The shots won't be perfect but I might
get a candid worth keeping... that's the plan.

vladimir

Hi Vladimir and Dan,

It is so great when we get detailed hands-on reports from other
members in the forum ! It helps get a clear picture (pun
unintended) of what the equipment can do and what it cannot. As Dan
says, the Holga has a reputation as a good "bad" camera and people
who are fans of the results this camera produces will know what to
expect when they buy it. But a lot of people out there (on eBay)
are not so knowledgeable and may assume this camera produces good
results. The description in the listing sure does not outline the
fact the lenses produce marked distortion. If that is what one is
looking for, then great but if not, it might prove quite a letdown.

I am puzzled by the multi-color flash... Why bother ? or is it
just some way of drawing attention to the camera ? Have you tested
that flash yet and can you speak of the results in terms of colour
effect and... coverage ? I suspect only the center of the image
(the clear part) will be acceptably well lit...

Is there a PC contact anywhere on the camera ? There is no hotshoe
and I cannot see a PC contact anywhere on the pictures I have, but
Dan does say he uses external flash...

I am especially intrigued by the viewers and mounts. I gather these
are available separately and may be priced competitively...

Thanks again for your detailed report !

Francois

My Holga 120 N does have a hotshoe, but I wouldn't be surprised if there is no external sync on the cameras with built-in flash. The multi-color flash is just part of the whole "Lomography" schtick. Folks take multiple exposures using the different color filters to make neo-psychedelic images. Now I suppose we can make neo-psychedelic STEREO images!

Dan

depthcam wrote:

Hi Vladimir and Dan,

It is so great when we get detailed hands-on reports from other
members in the forum ! It helps get a clear picture (pun
unintended) of what the equipment can do and what it cannot. As Dan
says, the Holga has a reputation as a good "bad" camera and people
who are fans of the results this camera produces will know what to
expect when they buy it. But a lot of people out there (on eBay)
are not so knowledgeable and may assume this camera produces good
results. The description in the listing sure does not outline the
fact the lenses produce marked distortion. If that is what one is
looking for, then great but if not, it might prove quite a letdown.

I am puzzled by the multi-color flash... Why bother ? or is it
just some way of drawing attention to the camera ? Have you tested
that flash yet and can you speak of the results in terms of colour
effect and... coverage ? I suspect only the center of the image
(the clear part) will be acceptably well lit...

Is there a PC contact anywhere on the camera ? There is no hotshoe
and I cannot see a PC contact anywhere on the pictures I have, but
Dan does say he uses external flash...

I am especially intrigued by the viewers and mounts. I gather these
are available separately and may be priced competitively. ..

Thanks again for your detailed report !

Francois

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, Dan Mouer wrote:

>
> My Holga 120 N does have a hotshoe, but I wouldn't be surprised if

there

> is no external sync on the cameras with built-in flash. The multi-

color

> flash is just part of the whole "Lomography" schtick. Folks take
> multiple exposures using the different color filters to make
> neo-psychedelic images. Now I suppose we can make neo-psychedelic

STEREO

> images!
>
> Dan

Wow ! Neo-psychedelic stereo ! That I wanna see ! ;-)

Vladimir, please test that multicolour flash ASAP and post some of
those groovy images !!!

Francois