Just in case I win Lotto and am able to buy a pair of Horizon cameras
(I prefer the S3) has anyone successfully twinned these cameras?
Being that their operation is much more sophisticated than a typical
shutter, I would think this would be a difficult proposition. Also
does anyone know a good strategy to winning Lotto?
Thanks,
Steve

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Aldridge" wrote:

> I'm often asked why the 6+ inch lens separation doesn't give more

problems,

> and I hypothesise that it's because, at the extreme left and right

of the

> view the lenses are looking obliquely and the real separation at

this time

> is about 65mm or close to standard eye separation. Of course, it's

excessive

> in the centre of the frames, but it's no more noticeable than the

usual

> panoramic distortions which cause perfectly straight roads/walls etc

to gain

> a decided bend!
>

What's the focal length? The Horizons use 28mm Arsat lenses, which
are pretty wide for 35mm. The wider the lenses, the greater
separation you can allow for.
Steve

>  

> I'm often asked why the 6+ inch lens separation doesn't

give more problems, and I hypothesise that it's because, at the extreme left and right of the view the lenses are looking obliquely and the real separation at this time is about 65mm or close to standard eye separation. Of course, it's excessive in the centre of the frames, but it's no more noticeable than the usual panoramic distortions which cause perfectly straight roads/walls etc to gain a decided bend!

>  

> Bob Aldridge

>

>

---

From: MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com [mailto:MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of coronet3d

> Sent: 17 February 2009 15:36
> To:

MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com

> Subject: [MF3D-group] Horizon

Twinning

>

>

>

Just in case I win Lotto and am able to buy a pair of Horizon cameras

> (I

prefer the S3) has anyone successfully twinned these cameras?

> Being that

their operation is much more sophisticated than a typical

> shutter, I would

think this would be a difficult proposition. Also

> does anyone know a good

strategy to winning Lotto?

> Thanks,
> Steve
>

>
> I'm often asked why the 6+ inch lens separation doesn't give more problems,
> and I hypothesise that it's because, at the extreme left and right of the
> view the lenses are looking obliquely and the real separation at this time
> is about 65mm or close to standard eye separation.

Bob, why would the lenses not have
parallel incoming rays the entire sweep of the lenses? If they both
move from one side to the other, I would think they would be both
looking at the same part of the scene, at the same time, right?

> Imagine when you are facing straight ahead and you glance to the left or
> right without turning your head - just your eyes.
>
> Your lines of sight are still parallel, but the actual separation of the two
> lines is less than when looking straight ahead.
>

Understood..... this is recipe for
variable deviations throughout the film length :-) However, due to
the short fl of the taking lens, the range of acceptable separation is
not as extreme probably fits well within your working parameters.
With my Seitz 220VR's, I can spin two of them together, side by side, as
the rotating head will turn both of them, as the entire body swings, not
just the lens, like your Widelux does. But regardless, how do you view
stereo panoramic images?

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "coronet3d" wrote:

>
> Just in case I win Lotto and am able to buy a pair of Horizon cameras
> (I prefer the S3) has anyone successfully twinned these cameras?
> Being that their operation is much more sophisticated than a typical
> shutter, I would think this would be a difficult proposition. Also
> does anyone know a good strategy to winning Lotto?
> Thanks,
> Steve

Hi Steve,

A friend of mine here in Australia also has a pair of Widelux cameras
which he has successfully synched with a twinned cable release. The
synch is mostly good but I believe that because the lenses pan across
the scene, the rate or speed that they move at is not absolutely
consistant from camera to camera. Hence even if the shutter buttons
are pressed at exactly the same time, they may finish the pan at
slightly different times. Having said that, all the results I have
ever seen from these rigs is impressive. Very enjoyable to view.

As for winning lotto, I have a sure fire solution. Buy around 45
million tickets! :)

regards,

Harry Calderbank

I am building a slit-scan Panoramic camera right now.  After I've got that under my belt, I'd like to try a stereo version.  I have ideas for a unique viewer as well.  It is a big project.  But, I believe a design can be made to use 120 film and keep normal interocular spacing of the lenses.

Aaron

pierre.meindre@free.fr wrote:

Hello Bob,

I have a picture of the camera (and of the photographer ;-) ) :
http://www.stereosc opie.fr/Voyages/ NorthAmerica/ Idaho/ISUNSA2007 /?type=1&page=7&img=6&l=EN

Pierre Meindre.

----- "Bob Aldridge" a écrit :

>

> I have a pair of Widelux cameras mounted on a bar. The synchronisation is done by using a rod which rotates in bearings formed in vertical supports on the ends of the camera mount bar. The rod is in front of and a little higher than the shutter release buttons. Mounted on the rod are two collars, one opposite each shutter release and a screw extends out over each shutter button. The screw/collar assemblies are locked onto the rod in such a way that pressing down on one releases bost shutters together.

>  

> The synch is surprisingly good, though I did have a slight problem with falling leaves on a pretty windy New England fall day :)

>  

> I'm often asked why the 6+ inch lens separation doesn't give more problems, and I hypothesise that it's because, at the extreme left and right of the view the lenses are looking obliquely and the real separation at this time is about 65mm or close to standard eye separation. Of course, it's excessive in the centre of the frames, but it's no more noticeable than the usual panoramic distortions which cause perfectly straight roads/walls etc to gain a decided bend!

>  

> Bob Aldridge

>

>

---

From: MF3D-group@yahoogro ups.com [mailto:MF3D- group@yahoogroup s.com] On Behalf Of coronet3d
> Sent: 17 February 2009 15:36
> To: MF3D-group@yahoogro ups.com
> Subject: [MF3D-group] Horizon Twinning
>
>

>

Just in case I win Lotto and am able to buy a pair of Horizon cameras
> (I prefer the S3) has anyone successfully twinned these cameras?
> Being that their operation is much more sophisticated than a typical
> shutter, I would think this would be a difficult proposition. Also
> does anyone know a good strategy to winning Lotto?
> Thanks,
> Steve
>

> I am building a slit-scan Panoramic camera right now. After I've got
> that under my belt, I'd like to try a stereo version. I have ideas for
> a unique viewer as well. It is a big project.

Care to share?

I have a pair of Horizon 202's which I simply put on a twin bar and use
a double cable release. Results are quite nice. I needed to epoxy the
shutter buttons so that a cable release must be used, as the weight of
the cable kept accidentally tripping the shutter. Also the only
problems with distortion I saw was with forground closer than about 4
feet and to the sides. Not only is the lens spacing closer, but one
lens is a few inches closer than the other. If I get around to it I may
try to scan and post a few. I have them in the Spicer mounts and view
them in a Saturn viewer also. I actually have been thinking of doing
verticals but would need to make my own mounts, or just scan and
digitize.

Rod S