Since affording a TL-120 is a ways off, I'm back to optimizing my humble Sputnik with further flocking to increase contrast.

Everything seems doable except the lens removal and marking bit. My amateur camera-fixer bud refuses to try it for me. He thinks the teeny screws will get lost and that the mod won't make that much difference anyway. Plus, he'll need to refocus the whole thing again (right?)

The few online refs I read still seem a little vague as to what to expect, and no procedural photos are found.

Is it easier than it sounds?

Is it worth it? (esp. if I already do all the other flare/glare mods)

Any other special tips or insights?

I am no expert on this, but I will never attempt it again.
I spent so much time on that and couldn't get the little screws back in correctly. That aluminum is so soft and I guess I boogered the threads. I finally retapped and used bigger screws. Then the refocussing is a pain. I couldn't get them focused and still align with the viewfinder gear. I wish they had made the thread surface wider on those gears. It's back together and it works, but I can't say that the backening had any affect. I would forget it and use lens shades.

Rod S

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "lattie_smart" wrote:
>
> Since affording a TL-120 is a ways off, I'm back to optimizing my humble Sputnik with further flocking to increase contrast.
>
> Everything seems doable except the lens removal and marking bit. My amateur camera-fixer bud refuses to try it for me. He thinks the teeny screws will get lost and that the mod won't make that much difference anyway. Plus, he'll need to refocus the whole thing again (right?)
>
> The few online refs I read still seem a little vague as to what to expect, and no procedural photos are found.
>
> Is it easier than it sounds?
>
> Is it worth it? (esp. if I already do all the other flare/glare mods)
>
> Any other special tips or insights?
>

Thanks for the heads-up! I was almost ready to start if I didn't hear from anyone. ;-(

So, I'm wondering if lens-edge glare is only a problem with the kind of side-lighting that can be prevented with shades? I only intend to shoot with small f-stops anyway.

If someone out there is *really* convinced it makes a difference, (and is pretty experienced doing it), maybe we can do a deal!

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "RodS" wrote:
>
> I am no expert on this, but I will never attempt it again.
> I spent so much time on that and couldn't get the little screws back in correctly. That aluminum is so soft and I guess I boogered the threads. I finally retapped and used bigger screws. Then the refocussing is a pain. I couldn't get them focused and still align with the viewfinder gear. I wish they had made the thread surface wider on those gears. It's back together and it works, but I can't say that the backening had any affect. I would forget it and use lens shades.
>
> Rod S
>
> --- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "lattie_smart" wrote:
> >
> > Since affording a TL-120 is a ways off, I'm back to optimizing my humble Sputnik with further flocking to increase contrast.
> >
> > Everything seems doable except the lens removal and marking bit. My amateur camera-fixer bud refuses to try it for me. He thinks the teeny screws will get lost and that the mod won't make that much difference anyway. Plus, he'll need to refocus the whole thing again (right?)
> >
> > The few online refs I read still seem a little vague as to what to expect, and no procedural photos are found.
> >
> > Is it easier than it sounds?
> >
> > Is it worth it? (esp. if I already do all the other flare/glare mods)
> >
> > Any other special tips or insights?
> >
>

lattie_smart wrote:

> Since affording a TL-120 is a ways off, I'm back to
> optimizing my humble Sputnik with further flocking to
> increase contrast.
>
> Everything seems doable except the lens removal and
> marking bit. My amateur camera-fixer bud refuses to try it
> for me. He thinks the teeny screws will get lost and that
> the mod won't make that much difference anyway. Plus,
> he'll need to refocus the whole thing again (right?)

Blacking the middle elements is done (as I recall) from the
rear of the lens board. It can be done without changing the
focus, but I'm willing to bet that your Sputnik would benefit
from having a focus adjustment. Getting the middle elements
out (again, as I recall) involves working with a cir-clip.
Someone else can leap in and tell me if I'm mistaken.

Setting the focus really isn't that hard (if you have some
decent screwdrivers) and a little bit of patience. When doing
the job, loosen but don't _remove_ the three set screws!
Clean the old grease off the focusing threads and install new.

> Any other special tips or insights?

Use lens hoods.

Remove the self-timer if you are ever inside the shutter.

Use gaffer's tape on the seams even if you have installed
yarn in the grooves.

Use a tripod and a cable release.
--
________________________________________
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us