I did the lens blackening, but it's not something I would even attempt unless you had an extra "parts" Spud sitting around to provide spare lens holding springs. Here's what I think are the critical Sputnik adjustments in order of importance:

1. Lens Shades Absolutely essential, preferably with square apertures.

2. Internal flocking.

3. Use of a tripod and cable release even at fast shutter speeds.

4. A small rubber-band between the lens holders and shutter mechanism to dampen vibrations.

5. Light leak blocking. You can build a box for this or just use electrical tape around the doors.

6. f22 (or smaller if possible) always.

My theory about calibrating the Sputnik's lenses is that you determine what the hyperfocal point is that you'll most often use at f22 and use a ground glass to precisely focus the taking lenses at exactly that point. For me it was about 15 feet. There's no point in calibrating these lenses at infinity, you will never shoot with them focused that way.

I got some gorgeous sharp slides with my Sputnik, it's really worth spending the time to redesign the thing.

Jim Harp

#4 - vibration dampening: a new one to me, could you add some detail or a link?

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "jamesbharp" wrote:
>
> 4. A small rubber-band between the lens holders and shutter mechanism to dampen vibrations.
>

>> 5. Light leak blocking. You can build a box for this or

just use electrical tape around the doors.

I have found that using a dark black yarn held into the
light blocking groves with Elmer's glue works for me. No
extra box, no messy tape. I also don't leave it out of the
camera bag for long periods of time.

Chuck Holzner

"jamesbharp" wrote:

>>My theory about calibrating the Sputnik's lenses is that

you determine what the hyperfocal point is that you'll most
often use at f22 and use a ground glass to precisely focus
the taking lenses at exactly that point. For me it was
about 15 feet. There's no point in calibrating these
lenses at infinity, you will never shoot with them focused
that way. >>>

I have yet to see a Sputnik with matched focus at 15" feet
that did not also match at infinity. Seems that they used
the same pitch on the lens barrel worm gears for both
lenses. I find it much easier to match focus at infinity,
then check it at different distances as you like.

Chuck Holzner

And please remember the "back-assed" focussing gag:

Put a glass panel on the film plane with some sharp black lines on the surface
towards the lens, open the aperature wide, and put a strong light source
(why not an old slide projector?) behind.
point "ole spuddie" at a white wall at your chosen distance,
and focus until your "previously drawn "lines" are sharpest.

Best Bakelite Wishes,
John Billingham

I've read older references to Spuds fixed by Don Lopp - were/are there any mods he added that hasn't been in all the other online tips?

One mod he does on some cameras is to knock the RED window
out. Makes it easier to read the numbers on the film
backing.

----- Original Message -----
From: "lattie_smart" <lattie_smart@yahoo.com>
To: <MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:22 PM
Subject: [MF3D-group] Re: Getting the most out of a Sputnik


I've read older references to Spuds fixed by Don Lopp -
were/are there any mods he added that hasn't been in all the
other online tips?