Hi

I've had a couple of incidents where the batteries were dead / died and I couldn't tell. So I swap regularly.

What brand and type do you use for fast shooting at an event?

Cheers

Mark

On 7/31/2012 8:23 AM, Mark wrote:

> Hi
>
> I've had a couple of incidents where the batteries were dead / died and I couldn't tell. So I swap regularly.
>
> What brand and type do you use for fast shooting at an event?

Check the archives for lengthy discussions on this topic.
Specifically, look at December '06 and again in December '08
where I wrote:

> I have done several measurements on the camera starting with
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/MF3D-group/message/301
> and most recently with
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/MF3D-group/message/1663

For battery capacity, look in December '08 for a message
with the subject "Comparative chemistry"


My conclusion in '08 was that silver-oxide batteries should
easily cover a six hour. Empirical evidence now indicates
this was incorrect and the duration is probably only two
hours. I also expected that batteries would sustain around
twenty hours of continuous meter use. I think this is still
a reasonable guess.

Use alkaline batteries if you want cheap and don't mind a
very short battery life. The alkaline battery is known by
the IEC type number "LR44".

Use silver oxide if you'd like them to last a reasonable
amount of time for only a little more money. This cell is
known by the IEC type number "SR44"

Use zinc-air if you want the most capacity and don't mind
the cells being fully discharged in a month (regardless of
use). This cell is known by the IEC type number PR44. In the
US, it is sold for use in hearing aids and commonly carries
a blue tab. It may also be known as a "675"

Be aware that zinc air requires a couple of minutes to react
and get up to voltage. Also be aware that it does consume
air. The design of the TL120 battery compartment limits the
air flow. Zinc-air batteries are suitable for repetitive
exposures, but are _not_ suitable for long, continuous
exposures.

Sorry, I can't tell you what brands or part numbers are
available in the UK in these IEC sizes. I'm on the wrong
side of the pond.
--
John Thurston
Juneau Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

 

On 7/31/2012 8:23 AM, Mark wrote:
> Hi
>
> I've had a couple of incidents where the batteries were dead / died and I couldn't tell. So I swap regularly.
>
> What brand and type do you use for fast shooting at an event?

Check the archives for lengthy discussions on this topic.
Specifically, look at December '06 and again in December '08
where I wrote:

> I have done several measurements on the camera starting with
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/MF3D-group/message/301
> and most recently with
> http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/MF3D-group/message/1663

For battery capacity, look in December '08 for a message
with the subject "Comparative chemistry"

My conclusion in '08 was that silver-oxide batteries should
easily cover a six hour. Empirical evidence now indicates
this was incorrect and the duration is probably only two
hours. I also expected that batteries would sustain around
twenty hours of continuous meter use. I think this is still
a reasonable guess.

Use alkaline batteries if you want cheap and don't mind a
very short battery life. The alkaline battery is known by
the IEC type number "LR44".

Use silver oxide if you'd like them to last a reasonable
amount of time for only a little more money. This cell is
known by the IEC type number "SR44"

Use zinc-air if you want the most capacity and don't mind
the cells being fully discharged in a month (regardless of
use). This cell is known by the IEC type number PR44. In the
US, it is sold for use in hearing aids and commonly carries
a blue tab. It may also be known as a "675"

Be aware that zinc air requires a couple of minutes to react
and get up to voltage. Also be aware that it does consume
air. The design of the TL120 battery compartment limits the
air flow. Zinc-air batteries are suitable for repetitive
exposures, but are _not_ suitable for long, continuous
exposures.

Sorry, I can't tell you what brands or part numbers are
available in the UK in these IEC sizes. I'm on the wrong
side of the pond.
--
John Thurston
Juneau Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

Looking at the various offerings online, I see some SR44 equivalents are marked "low drain", some "high drain" and some "multi-drain". These were I think all energizers. What does this mean, and which would be best suited for camera use if there is indeed a significant difference?

I am also a little confused by the various numerical designations, but it appears that 357 or 357/303 are interchangeable with the SR44 and/or SR44W / SR44SW. Will any of these work? Just watch out for alkalines e.g. LR 44? Other sizes such as 377/376 et al sneak into the searches but I gather are not quite the same. -Linda

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, Bob Aldridge wrote:
>
> I recently bought FIFTEEN SR44 silver oxide batteries from 7dayshop.com
> for very little money...
>
> I see that they are currently listed at just £2.59 - that's well under
> 20 pence each... Post paid.
>
> And, yes, I just checked they are stamped "SR44" on the cells and marked
> "Silver Oxide" on teh packaging...
>
> Bob Aldridge
>
> On 31/07/2012 18:34, John Thurston wrote:
> >
> > On 7/31/2012 8:23 AM, Mark wrote:
> > > Hi
> > >
> > > I've had a couple of incidents where the batteries were dead / died
> > and I couldn't tell. So I swap regularly.
> > >
> > > What brand and type do you use for fast shooting at an event?
> >
> > Check the archives for lengthy discussions on this topic.
> > Specifically, look at December '06 and again in December '08
> > where I wrote:
> >
> > > I have done several measurements on the camera starting with
> > > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/MF3D-group/message/301
> > > and most recently with
> > > http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/MF3D-group/message/1663
> >
> > For battery capacity, look in December '08 for a message
> > with the subject "Comparative chemistry"
> >
> > My conclusion in '08 was that silver-oxide batteries should
> > easily cover a six hour. Empirical evidence now indicates
> > this was incorrect and the duration is probably only two
> > hours. I also expected that batteries would sustain around
> > twenty hours of continuous meter use. I think this is still
> > a reasonable guess.
> >
> > Use alkaline batteries if you want cheap and don't mind a
> > very short battery life. The alkaline battery is known by
> > the IEC type number "LR44".
> >
> > Use silver oxide if you'd like them to last a reasonable
> > amount of time for only a little more money. This cell is
> > known by the IEC type number "SR44"
> >
> > Use zinc-air if you want the most capacity and don't mind
> > the cells being fully discharged in a month (regardless of
> > use). This cell is known by the IEC type number PR44. In the
> > US, it is sold for use in hearing aids and commonly carries
> > a blue tab. It may also be known as a "675"
> >
> > Be aware that zinc air requires a couple of minutes to react
> > and get up to voltage. Also be aware that it does consume
> > air. The design of the TL120 battery compartment limits the
> > air flow. Zinc-air batteries are suitable for repetitive
> > exposures, but are _not_ suitable for long, continuous
> > exposures.
> >
> > Sorry, I can't tell you what brands or part numbers are
> > available in the UK in these IEC sizes. I'm on the wrong
> > side of the pond.
> > --
> > John Thurston
> > Juneau Alaska
> > http://stereo.thurstons.us
> >
>

On 7/31/2012 11:53 AM, lindajnygren wrote:

> Looking at the various offerings online, I see some SR44 equivalents are marked "low drain", some "high drain" and some "multi-drain".

The drain refers to how many amps the cell is designed to
source. My previous emails contained measured current drains
for different camera states. They were (as I recall) about
5ma for the meter and 25ma for the shutter. These are both
pretty high draws for button cells. You'd need to pull the
manufacture's documentation for each product to estimate how
the different types may react at these drains.
I _suspect_ that 25ma puts the TL120-1 in the "high drain"
range, but without having the spec sheets I can't say for sure.

> These were I think all energizers. What does this mean, and which would be best suited for camera use if there is indeed a significant difference?

There is also the question of product sourcing. Energizer
has a couple types of commercial cells which are only
available in the manufacturing channels.

> I am also a little confused by the various numerical designations, but it appears that 357 or 357/303 are interchangeable with the SR44 and/or SR44W / SR44SW. Will any of these work? Just watch out for alkalines e.g. LR 44? Other sizes such as 377/376 et al sneak into the searches but I gather are not quite the same. -Linda

Each manufacture can choose their own part numbers, but yes,
357 is the Energizer type I use.
--
John Thurston
Juneau Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

I've gotten 20-30 rolls from a pair of energizer 357 batteries

NIk
be careful not to put your camera into a pack where anything is pressing on the meter or shutter button, that can run down the batteries very quickly, sitting upright on a shelf, thae batteries last forever in my experience

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "sekharni" wrote:

>
>
> I've gotten 20-30 rolls from a pair of energizer 357 batteries

I've just looked and I have 6 44's left so I think I'll use that up with the swap over every 5 rolls as I know that works. I don't throw the out - just save them for micro flashlights.

How do people check their batteries? Pressing that button?

I'll swap over the 357's from there after.

> NIk
> be careful not to put your camera into a pack where anything is pressing on the meter or shutter button, that can run down the batteries very quickly, sitting upright on a shelf, thae batteries last forever in my experience

Sure - I've had that happen and a beeping from an unknown source which turned out to be the above case.

You know if the had made the default unpowered shutter speed at 1/60th it wouldn't be an issue.

M

On 8/12/2012 1:37 AM, Mark wrote:

>
>
> --- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "sekharni" wrote:
>>
>>
>> I've gotten 20-30 rolls from a pair of energizer 357 batteries
>
> I've just looked and I have 6 44's left so I think I'll use that up with the swap over every 5 rolls as I know that works. I don't throw the out - just save them for micro flashlights.
>
> How do people check their batteries? Pressing that button?

There isn't a good way. Even before the batteries are in
their "beep" condition, the meter switch lights the meter
LEDs. I wish the camera had a check-battery button and a
five-bar LED, but it doesn't.

> You know if the had made the default unpowered shutter speed at 1/60th it wouldn't be an issue.

This wouldn't be possible unless the fastest shutter speed
were also 1/60th. The shutter circuit can't accelerate the
shutter curtains, it can only retard their release.
Therefore, the un-powered shutter behavior is going to be as
fast as the shutters can run. In this case it is 1/500th of
a second.

--
John Thurston
Juneau Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

> This wouldn't be possible unless the fastest shutter speed
> were also 1/60th. The shutter circuit can't accelerate the
> shutter curtains, it can only retard their release.
> Therefore, the un-powered shutter behavior is going to be as
> fast as the shutters can run. In this case it is 1/500th of
> a second.

cheers - thats why the camera went off along with the flash. So it all seemed fine.

Film totally blank as 1/500th is to fast for the flash to sync at.

tip; beware of haunted environments - ghosts drain batteries

M