--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" wrote:
>
> Hi
>
> Now that the chinese co is dropping the TL120 and viewers. Where do we get a fresh supply of mounts?
>
> Cheers
>
> Mark
>

> I am picking up a stock from George at the NSA convention, but after he has run out, I am hoping someone here will produce a batch of cardboard ones.

> Timo wrote:
> >
> > I am picking up a stock from George at the NSA convention, but
> > after he has run out, I am hoping someone here will produce a
> > batch of cardboard ones.
>
> we could do some sort of collective bulk buy of new ones made for us
> specifically.

 

Mark wrote:
> Timo wrote:
> >
> > I am picking up a stock from George at the NSA convention, but
> > after he has run out, I am hoping someone here will produce a
> > batch of cardboard ones.
>
> we could do some sort of collective bulk buy of new ones made for us
> specifically.

The problem is I don't think anyone is actually manufacturing any
(cardboard or plastic) MF3D mounts.

I have had an idea in the back of my head for a while, but I have
plenty of mounts (at my current slow rate of mounting my backlog), and
I want to update my home computers before taking on any new projects,
so I haven't done anything about it.

The idea is to use one of the online laser cutting services to design
and manufacture new cardboard (80x132mm) mounts. I'd put the design
online so that other people could make their own mounts. I have no
intention of selling mounts.

A vector graphics editor like Inkscape <http://www.inkscape.org/>
would be used to create the file for the laser cutter. It would be
important to use a file format that would not lock people into
expensive software.

I was planning on using Ponoko <http://www.ponoko.com/> because they
put a lot of how-to information online, they offer a lot of material
choices (I've been thinking of using them for other projects), they'll
host your design files, and provide a means of selling the results of
your designs. They'll even sell them at cost, so you don't have to
worry about turning this into a business.

--
Brian Reynolds | "It's just like flying a spaceship.
reynolds@panix.com | You push some buttons and see
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/ | what happens." -- Zapp Brannigan
NAR# 54438 |

>
> Brian, what material have you considered?
> when I run dry, I considered using CNC mat cutter for a run....
> I like the black beveled edges a CNC mat cutter can produce.
> Creates a nice 3d look....
> But other materials are more rigid, which would be helpful....
> as the mounts would not have to be as thick for equal rigidity....

>The problem is I don't think anyone is actually manufacturing any
>(cardboard or plastic) MF3D mounts.

 

BG wrote:
>
> Brian, what material have you considered?
> when I run dry, I considered using CNC mat cutter for a run....
> I like the black beveled edges a CNC mat cutter can produce.
> Creates a nice 3d look....
> But other materials are more rigid, which would be helpful....
> as the mounts would not have to be as thick for equal rigidity....

I'd use whatever paper/cardstock material Ponoko offers. At this
point I'm not that interested in doing a lot of materials research,
and I don't think any of the previous MF3D cardboard mount makers were
too worried about the archival stability of the mounts.

I figure that getting the design right is the first step. Layout and
optimization will be important to minimize cutting time.

The sizes Ponoko currently lists would allow for one mount per card
(for sampling and design testing) or four mounts per card. They have
a sample card you can order to see the material and how it reacts to
the laser cutter.

I don't know if Ponoko will run your materials through their
machines. Ordering materials and having them shipped to Ponoko would
be a hassle.

When using clear plastic sleeves the paper could be lighter (so long
as it is opaque) with the sleeve providing the rigidity.

When the design is finialized people could take it and use it at a
local laser cutter with whatever materials are available.

--
Brian Reynolds | "It's just like flying a spaceship.
reynolds@panix.com | You push some buttons and see
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/ | what happens." -- Zapp Brannigan
NAR# 54438 |

>
> Fom the "back" of Brian's brain...
>
> >The problem is I don't think anyone is actually manufacturing any
> >(cardboard or plastic) MF3D mounts.
>
>
> Ponoko seems to need 2.00/minute for laser cutting, any idea how fast
> their "cutter" moves ?

> and, to all of you, what would ONE "spicer type" MF mount be worth ?

>
> I think there are two interesting options:
>
> The first one is to place a large group order with 3D World. It's
> possible that if an order of 10,000 mounts were placed, they might
> be more receptive to doing another run. But are there enough
> members here shootng MF often enough that they would collectively
> need that many mounts ?
>
> The other option was mentioned earlier: Having mounts laser-cut. I
> personally did have some mounts laser-cut out of plastic as a test
> and they came out well. But it came to $5.00 for the two halves.
> However, keep in mind this was for only two mounts. The price would
> go down with a larger order.

 

Francois wrote:
>
> I think there are two interesting options:
>
> The first one is to place a large group order with 3D World. It's
> possible that if an order of 10,000 mounts were placed, they might
> be more receptive to doing another run. But are there enough
> members here shootng MF often enough that they would collectively
> need that many mounts ?
>
> The other option was mentioned earlier: Having mounts laser-cut. I
> personally did have some mounts laser-cut out of plastic as a test
> and they came out well. But it came to $5.00 for the two halves.
> However, keep in mind this was for only two mounts. The price would
> go down with a larger order.

I'd like ot point out that I was discussing having paper mounts laser
cut.

I have no interest in plastic mounts.

I might be interested in a group but of paper mounts.

--
Brian Reynolds | "It's just like flying a spaceship.
reynolds@panix.com | You push some buttons and see
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/ | what happens." -- Zapp Brannigan
NAR# 54438 |

> --- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, Brian Reynolds wrote:
> > I have no interest in plastic mounts.
> >
> Why the disinterest in plastic? Because they won't fit into a Saturn
> Slide viewer?
> Thanks,
> Steve
>
>

> Speaking for myself, I really dislike the plastic mounts.

> The strip of leds across the bottom leaves the top of the image dim.

 

> Speaking for myself, I really dislike the plastic mounts.

Good, because they are not available any more :)

> The strip of leds across the bottom leaves the top of the image dim.

Not always... If the strip is positioned properly and works properly, the
light should be distributed evenly.

George

On Jul 3, 2013, at 10:42 AM, "George Themelis" <gathemelis@gmail.com> wrote:

> > The strip of leds across the bottom leaves the top of the image dim.
>
> Not always... If the strip is positioned properly and works properly, the
> light should be distributed evenly.
>
> George

> Maybe I need mine adjusted.

On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 1:13 PM, George Themelis <gathemelis@gmail.com> wrote:

Despite these issues and the fact that the focusing range was off (the only
way I could use the viewer was with the focus all the way out), it was a
decent viewer for the price (around $85). The non-lighted viewer was also a
bargain at $30-$35. Just the nice achromatic lenses are worth more, IMO.
Too bad they stopped making them.

George

> Quoting coronet3d <coronet3d@yahoo.com>:
> > --- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, Brian Reynolds wrote:
> > > I have no interest in plastic mounts.
> > >
> > Why the disinterest in plastic? Because they won't fit into a Saturn
> > Slide viewer?
>
> Speaking for myself, I really dislike the plastic mounts. They come
> in one aperture size, they are bulky and expensive, they do not fit
> in my regal viewer. I think the bulk would make it more difficult
> (for me) to get them precisely aligned.

On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 12:13 PM, George Themelis <gathemelis@gmail.com> wrote:

 

> Maybe I need mine adjusted.

Yes, take it apart and play with it.

I used to sell these viewers. They had a lot of issues so I checked every
one before shipping them out to customers.

The main problem is that the focus gets easily off track (this was a big
problem with more than half of viewers betting out of alignment during
shipping - the company finally started shipping these with a rigid piece of
tube around the lenses to avoid this problem).

There were some problems with the light too... Either dim light overall or
the problem you describe. If the viewer is working properly, the light is
distributed rather evenly. If you take it apart and move it around, you can
improve the light distribution.

Despite these issues and the fact that the focusing range was off (the only
way I could use the viewer was with the focus all the way out), it was a
decent viewer for the price (around $85). The non-lighted viewer was also a
bargain at $30-$35. Just the nice achromatic lenses are worth more, IMO.
Too bad they stopped making them.

George

--
Gfpguy1@gmail.com

**Consulting on Protein Solubility, Folding, Engineering, & Detection**

Geoffrey S. Waldo, PhD
Mail Stop M888
Los Alamos National Laboratory
Los Alamos, NM 87545

Tel:  505-667-8161                 email: waldo@LANL.gov
Fax: 505-665-3024
Cell: 505-204-6979


Los Alamos Fluorescent Proteins Website: http://www.lanl.gov/projects/gfp/
•Superfolder, Folding Reporter, Split Proteins
•Tools for engineering protein folding, stability, and solubility
•Protein interactions, tagging, and detection

ISFI Integrated Center for Structure and Function Innovation web site: http://techcenter.mbi.ucla.edu

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, Brian Reynolds wrote:
>
> bob@... wrote:
> > Quoting coronet3d :
> > > --- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, Brian Reynolds wrote:
> > > > I have no interest in plastic mounts.
> > > >
> > > Why the disinterest in plastic? Because they won't fit into a Saturn
> > > Slide viewer?
> >
> > Speaking for myself, I really dislike the plastic mounts. They come
> > in one aperture size, they are bulky and expensive, they do not fit
> > in my regal viewer. I think the bulk would make it more difficult
> > (for me) to get them precisely aligned.
>
> I agree with all of Bob's points.
>
> --
> Brian Reynolds | "It's just like flying a spaceship.
> reynolds@... | You push some buttons and see
> http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/ | what happens." -- Zapp Brannigan
> NAR# 54438 |
>

 

Hi,
don't know if you'll receive this note!
I have been plagued by the same issue with the 3D World MF viewer. Basically, bright at the bottom, faint at the top.
Here is what fixed it.

1) remove battery panel, it pops off the back and swings off.
2) take out batteries.
3) remove the single screw under the battery tray (normally hidden under the last battery). Phillips head.
4) hold the viewer with the lenses down to keep things from falling out.
5) the back containing the light panel and battery compartment swings away. It's held in place on the other end by detents in a slot.
6) now you see the light panel. Remove the 4 small screws that hold it into the frame
7) you can carefully peel away the plastic sheet that faces the slides. (you're looking at it normally). its held in place with contact adhesive strip about 1/8 wide on the sides and top
8) once you do that you'll see a reflective mylar strip sitting over the led bar. The LED bar can be gently pulled out of the lucite light panel. Notice the nifty cutouts for each LED on the strip. Most likely, the top edge of the aluminized mylar strip that covers the LED bar has delaminated from the lucite panel. This causes light to shine out onto the surface of the lucite, rather than entering it. REPLACE with a fresh piece of aluminized mylar strip, making sure the top edge makes good contact with the field of the panel. I got mine at a local camera shop, 1/4" x 72 yrds for $17. You only need about a foot. Now the light won't leak out there anymore, and will spend it's time going into the lucite sheet.
9) reverse the steps
10) enjoy a perfectly uniform light panel.

This made a HUGE difference for me. Absolutely amazing difference, looks like the viewers I first saw at the NSA last year.

[=geoff

-geoff

On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 12:13 PM, George Themelis <gathemelis@gmail.com> wrote:

 

> Maybe I need mine adjusted.

Yes, take it apart and play with it.

I used to sell these viewers. They had a lot of issues so I checked every
one before shipping them out to customers.

The main problem is that the focus gets easily off track (this was a big
problem with more than half of viewers betting out of alignment during
shipping - the company finally started shipping these with a rigid piece of
tube around the lenses to avoid this problem).

There were some problems with the light too... Either dim light overall or
the problem you describe. If the viewer is working properly, the light is
distributed rather evenly. If you take it apart and move it around, you can
improve the light distribution.

Despite these issues and the fact that the focusing range was off (the only
way I could use the viewer was with the focus all the way out), it was a
decent viewer for the price (around $85). The non-lighted viewer was also a
bargain at $30-$35. Just the nice achromatic lenses are worth more, IMO.
Too bad they stopped making them.

George

--
Gfpguy1@gmail.com

**Consulting on Protein Solubility, Folding, Engineering, & Detection**

Geoffrey S. Waldo, PhD
Mail Stop M888
Los Alamos National Laboratory
Los Alamos, NM 87545

Tel:  505-667-8161                 email: waldo@LANL.gov
Fax: 505-665-3024
Cell: 505-204-6979


Los Alamos Fluorescent Proteins Website: http://www.lanl.gov/projects/gfp/
•Superfolder, Folding Reporter, Split Proteins
•Tools for engineering protein folding, stability, and solubility
•Protein interactions, tagging, and detection

ISFI Integrated Center for Structure and Function Innovation web site: http://techcenter.mbi.ucla.edu

 

Thank you very much for your instructions, Geoff. I did try what you suggest. Maybe I didn't get it correct. Now instead of having at least one brightly lit portion of the image, everything is equally dim. :^)

I may go back in and have another hack. 

Larry, are you listening? We need you! :^)

Bob

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 3, 2013, at 1:15 PM, Geoffrey Waldo <gfpguy1@gmail.com> wrote:

 

Hi,
don't know if you'll receive this note!
I have been plagued by the same issue with the 3D World MF viewer. Basically, bright at the bottom, faint at the top.
Here is what fixed it.

1) remove battery panel, it pops off the back and swings off.
2) take out batteries.
3) remove the single screw under the battery tray (normally hidden under the last battery). Phillips head.
4) hold the viewer with the lenses down to keep things from falling out.
5) the back containing the light panel and battery compartment swings away. It's held in place on the other end by detents in a slot.
6) now you see the light panel. Remove the 4 small screws that hold it into the frame
7) you can carefully peel away the plastic sheet that faces the slides. (you're looking at it normally). its held in place with contact adhesive strip about 1/8 wide on the sides and top
8) once you do that you'll see a reflective mylar strip sitting over the led bar. The LED bar can be gently pulled out of the lucite light panel. Notice the nifty cutouts for each LED on the strip. Most likely, the top edge of the aluminized mylar strip that covers the LED bar has delaminated from the lucite panel. This causes light to shine out onto the surface of the lucite, rather than entering it. REPLACE with a fresh piece of aluminized mylar strip, making sure the top edge makes good contact with the field of the panel. I got mine at a local camera shop, 1/4" x 72 yrds for $17. You only need about a foot. Now the light won't leak out there anymore, and will spend it's time going into the lucite sheet.
9) reverse the steps
10) enjoy a perfectly uniform light panel.

This made a HUGE difference for me. Absolutely amazing difference, looks like the viewers I first saw at the NSA last year.

[=geoff

-geoff

On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 12:13 PM, George Themelis <gathemelis@gmail.com> wrote:

 

> Maybe I need mine adjusted.

Yes, take it apart and play with it.

I used to sell these viewers. They had a lot of issues so I checked every
one before shipping them out to customers.

The main problem is that the focus gets easily off track (this was a big
problem with more than half of viewers betting out of alignment during
shipping - the company finally started shipping these with a rigid piece of
tube around the lenses to avoid this problem).

There were some problems with the light too... Either dim light overall or
the problem you describe. If the viewer is working properly, the light is
distributed rather evenly. If you take it apart and move it around, you can
improve the light distribution.

Despite these issues and the fact that the focusing range was off (the only
way I could use the viewer was with the focus all the way out), it was a
decent viewer for the price (around $85). The non-lighted viewer was also a
bargain at $30-$35. Just the nice achromatic lenses are worth more, IMO.
Too bad they stopped making them.

George

--
Gfpguy1@gmail.com

**Consulting on Protein Solubility, Folding, Engineering, & Detection**

Geoffrey S. Waldo, PhD
Mail Stop M888
Los Alamos National Laboratory
Los Alamos, NM 87545

Tel:  505-667-8161                 email: waldo@LANL.gov
Fax: 505-665-3024
Cell: 505-204-6979


Los Alamos Fluorescent Proteins Website: http://www.lanl.gov/projects/gfp/
•Superfolder, Folding Reporter, Split Proteins
•Tools for engineering protein folding, stability, and solubility
•Protein interactions, tagging, and detection

ISFI Integrated Center for Structure and Function Innovation web site: http://techcenter.mbi.ucla.edu

 

Thank you very much for your instructions, Geoff. I did try what you suggest. Maybe I didn't get it correct. Now instead of having at least one brightly lit portion of the image, everything is equally dim. :^)

I may go back in and have another hack. 

Larry, are you listening? We need you! :^)

Bob

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 3, 2013, at 1:15 PM, Geoffrey Waldo <gfpguy1@gmail.com> wrote:

 

Hi,
don't know if you'll receive this note!
I have been plagued by the same issue with the 3D World MF viewer. Basically, bright at the bottom, faint at the top.
Here is what fixed it.

1) remove battery panel, it pops off the back and swings off.
2) take out batteries.
3) remove the single screw under the battery tray (normally hidden under the last battery). Phillips head.
4) hold the viewer with the lenses down to keep things from falling out.
5) the back containing the light panel and battery compartment swings away. It's held in place on the other end by detents in a slot.
6) now you see the light panel. Remove the 4 small screws that hold it into the frame
7) you can carefully peel away the plastic sheet that faces the slides. (you're looking at it normally). its held in place with contact adhesive strip about 1/8 wide on the sides and top
8) once you do that you'll see a reflective mylar strip sitting over the led bar. The LED bar can be gently pulled out of the lucite light panel. Notice the nifty cutouts for each LED on the strip. Most likely, the top edge of the aluminized mylar strip that covers the LED bar has delaminated from the lucite panel. This causes light to shine out onto the surface of the lucite, rather than entering it. REPLACE with a fresh piece of aluminized mylar strip, making sure the top edge makes good contact with the field of the panel. I got mine at a local camera shop, 1/4" x 72 yrds for $17. You only need about a foot. Now the light won't leak out there anymore, and will spend it's time going into the lucite sheet.
9) reverse the steps
10) enjoy a perfectly uniform light panel.

This made a HUGE difference for me. Absolutely amazing difference, looks like the viewers I first saw at the NSA last year.

[=geoff

-geoff

On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 12:13 PM, George Themelis <gathemelis@gmail.com> wrote:

 

> Maybe I need mine adjusted.

Yes, take it apart and play with it.

I used to sell these viewers. They had a lot of issues so I checked every
one before shipping them out to customers.

The main problem is that the focus gets easily off track (this was a big
problem with more than half of viewers betting out of alignment during
shipping - the company finally started shipping these with a rigid piece of
tube around the lenses to avoid this problem).

There were some problems with the light too... Either dim light overall or
the problem you describe. If the viewer is working properly, the light is
distributed rather evenly. If you take it apart and move it around, you can
improve the light distribution.

Despite these issues and the fact that the focusing range was off (the only
way I could use the viewer was with the focus all the way out), it was a
decent viewer for the price (around $85). The non-lighted viewer was also a
bargain at $30-$35. Just the nice achromatic lenses are worth more, IMO.
Too bad they stopped making them.

George

--
Gfpguy1@gmail.com

**Consulting on Protein Solubility, Folding, Engineering, & Detection**

Geoffrey S. Waldo, PhD
Mail Stop M888
Los Alamos National Laboratory
Los Alamos, NM 87545

Tel:  505-667-8161                 email: waldo@LANL.gov
Fax: 505-665-3024
Cell: 505-204-6979


Los Alamos Fluorescent Proteins Website: http://www.lanl.gov/projects/gfp/
•Superfolder, Folding Reporter, Split Proteins
•Tools for engineering protein folding, stability, and solubility
•Protein interactions, tagging, and detection

ISFI Integrated Center for Structure and Function Innovation web site: http://techcenter.mbi.ucla.edu

 

Thank you very much for your instructions, Geoff. I did try what you suggest. Maybe I didn't get it correct. Now instead of having at least one brightly lit portion of the image, everything is equally dim. :^)

I may go back in and have another hack. 

Larry, are you listening? We need you! :^)

Bob

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 3, 2013, at 1:15 PM, Geoffrey Waldo <gfpguy1@gmail.com> wrote:

 

Hi,
don't know if you'll receive this note!
I have been plagued by the same issue with the 3D World MF viewer. Basically, bright at the bottom, faint at the top.
Here is what fixed it.

1) remove battery panel, it pops off the back and swings off.
2) take out batteries.
3) remove the single screw under the battery tray (normally hidden under the last battery). Phillips head.
4) hold the viewer with the lenses down to keep things from falling out.
5) the back containing the light panel and battery compartment swings away. It's held in place on the other end by detents in a slot.
6) now you see the light panel. Remove the 4 small screws that hold it into the frame
7) you can carefully peel away the plastic sheet that faces the slides. (you're looking at it normally). its held in place with contact adhesive strip about 1/8 wide on the sides and top
8) once you do that you'll see a reflective mylar strip sitting over the led bar. The LED bar can be gently pulled out of the lucite light panel. Notice the nifty cutouts for each LED on the strip. Most likely, the top edge of the aluminized mylar strip that covers the LED bar has delaminated from the lucite panel. This causes light to shine out onto the surface of the lucite, rather than entering it. REPLACE with a fresh piece of aluminized mylar strip, making sure the top edge makes good contact with the field of the panel. I got mine at a local camera shop, 1/4" x 72 yrds for $17. You only need about a foot. Now the light won't leak out there anymore, and will spend it's time going into the lucite sheet.
9) reverse the steps
10) enjoy a perfectly uniform light panel.

This made a HUGE difference for me. Absolutely amazing difference, looks like the viewers I first saw at the NSA last year.

[=geoff

-geoff

On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 12:13 PM, George Themelis <gathemelis@gmail.com> wrote:

 

> Maybe I need mine adjusted.

Yes, take it apart and play with it.

I used to sell these viewers. They had a lot of issues so I checked every
one before shipping them out to customers.

The main problem is that the focus gets easily off track (this was a big
problem with more than half of viewers betting out of alignment during
shipping - the company finally started shipping these with a rigid piece of
tube around the lenses to avoid this problem).

There were some problems with the light too... Either dim light overall or
the problem you describe. If the viewer is working properly, the light is
distributed rather evenly. If you take it apart and move it around, you can
improve the light distribution.

Despite these issues and the fact that the focusing range was off (the only
way I could use the viewer was with the focus all the way out), it was a
decent viewer for the price (around $85). The non-lighted viewer was also a
bargain at $30-$35. Just the nice achromatic lenses are worth more, IMO.
Too bad they stopped making them.

George

--
Gfpguy1@gmail.com

**Consulting on Protein Solubility, Folding, Engineering, & Detection**

Geoffrey S. Waldo, PhD
Mail Stop M888
Los Alamos National Laboratory
Los Alamos, NM 87545

Tel:  505-667-8161                 email: waldo@LANL.gov
Fax: 505-665-3024
Cell: 505-204-6979


Los Alamos Fluorescent Proteins Website: http://www.lanl.gov/projects/gfp/
•Superfolder, Folding Reporter, Split Proteins
•Tools for engineering protein folding, stability, and solubility
•Protein interactions, tagging, and detection

ISFI Integrated Center for Structure and Function Innovation web site: http://techcenter.mbi.ucla.edu

 

Thank you very much for your instructions, Geoff. I did try what you suggest. Maybe I didn't get it correct. Now instead of having at least one brightly lit portion of the image, everything is equally dim. :^)

I may go back in and have another hack. 

Larry, are you listening? We need you! :^)

Bob

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 3, 2013, at 1:15 PM, Geoffrey Waldo <gfpguy1@gmail.com> wrote:

 

Hi,
don't know if you'll receive this note!
I have been plagued by the same issue with the 3D World MF viewer. Basically, bright at the bottom, faint at the top.
Here is what fixed it.

1) remove battery panel, it pops off the back and swings off.
2) take out batteries.
3) remove the single screw under the battery tray (normally hidden under the last battery). Phillips head.
4) hold the viewer with the lenses down to keep things from falling out.
5) the back containing the light panel and battery compartment swings away. It's held in place on the other end by detents in a slot.
6) now you see the light panel. Remove the 4 small screws that hold it into the frame
7) you can carefully peel away the plastic sheet that faces the slides. (you're looking at it normally). its held in place with contact adhesive strip about 1/8 wide on the sides and top
8) once you do that you'll see a reflective mylar strip sitting over the led bar. The LED bar can be gently pulled out of the lucite light panel. Notice the nifty cutouts for each LED on the strip. Most likely, the top edge of the aluminized mylar strip that covers the LED bar has delaminated from the lucite panel. This causes light to shine out onto the surface of the lucite, rather than entering it. REPLACE with a fresh piece of aluminized mylar strip, making sure the top edge makes good contact with the field of the panel. I got mine at a local camera shop, 1/4" x 72 yrds for $17. You only need about a foot. Now the light won't leak out there anymore, and will spend it's time going into the lucite sheet.
9) reverse the steps
10) enjoy a perfectly uniform light panel.

This made a HUGE difference for me. Absolutely amazing difference, looks like the viewers I first saw at the NSA last year.

[=geoff

-geoff

On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 12:13 PM, George Themelis <gathemelis@gmail.com> wrote:

 

> Maybe I need mine adjusted.

Yes, take it apart and play with it.

I used to sell these viewers. They had a lot of issues so I checked every
one before shipping them out to customers.

The main problem is that the focus gets easily off track (this was a big
problem with more than half of viewers betting out of alignment during
shipping - the company finally started shipping these with a rigid piece of
tube around the lenses to avoid this problem).

There were some problems with the light too... Either dim light overall or
the problem you describe. If the viewer is working properly, the light is
distributed rather evenly. If you take it apart and move it around, you can
improve the light distribution.

Despite these issues and the fact that the focusing range was off (the only
way I could use the viewer was with the focus all the way out), it was a
decent viewer for the price (around $85). The non-lighted viewer was also a
bargain at $30-$35. Just the nice achromatic lenses are worth more, IMO.
Too bad they stopped making them.

George

--
Gfpguy1@gmail.com

**Consulting on Protein Solubility, Folding, Engineering, & Detection**

Geoffrey S. Waldo, PhD
Mail Stop M888
Los Alamos National Laboratory
Los Alamos, NM 87545

Tel:  505-667-8161                 email: waldo@LANL.gov
Fax: 505-665-3024
Cell: 505-204-6979


Los Alamos Fluorescent Proteins Website: http://www.lanl.gov/projects/gfp/
•Superfolder, Folding Reporter, Split Proteins
•Tools for engineering protein folding, stability, and solubility
•Protein interactions, tagging, and detection

ISFI Integrated Center for Structure and Function Innovation web site: http://techcenter.mbi.ucla.edu

> IMHO, Over all; a cardboard mount in the format of the King Inn mounts (AKA RMM Mounts) would serve
> the best interests of the most people.

----- Original Message -----
From: "coronet3d" <coronet3d@yahoo.com>
To: <MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2013 22:05
Subject: [MF3D-group] Re: Where do I get the mounts


-- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Holzner" <3D4me@...> wrote:
> IMHO, Over all; a cardboard mount in the format of the King Inn mounts (AKA RMM Mounts) would
serve
> the best interests of the most people.

I seem to recall that the maker of the King Inn mounts was open to making them again assuming a
large enough order. Is he still active?
Thanks,
Steve

> As I remember Paul Talbot had designed his version and had a
> company in Italy making the mounts.

> I might need to photograph all the key steps?

 

On 7/4/2013 8:55 AM, Geoffrey S. Waldo wrote:
> I might need to photograph all the key steps?

Some of this is already out there.
http://stereo.thurstons.us/content/?page_id=58

and elsewhere on those pages.
--
John Thurston
Juneau Alaska
http://stereo.thurstons.us

>Don't know if my photo will get through, but India is where the rmm3d mounts were made.

--- In MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com, "coronet3d" wrote:
>
> Based on my experience in plastic, reverse engineering the mounts is no big deal but the fixed costs of the dies will be there - my guess is that that cost will be in the thousands. It would be a shame for someone to have to incur that cost a second time to get these mounts (cardboard or plastic) back into production.
> Steve
>