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Subject: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-06 13:13:53
From: Brian Reynolds
I hate mounting MF3D slides. I will run out of patience for mounting
long before I run out of film, mounts, or sleeves.

I mostly mount to the window, and I have a mounting guide I made years
ago.

It has occurred to me that if I filed notches in the bottom (or top)
edge of the film rail of my Sputnik (similar to the Vs seen on the
edge of Hasselblad film backs) I might be able to mount simply by
lining up the notches with the lines of a mounting guide.

What distance between the notches should I choose? I realize that the
frames will be swapped during mounting, so the final distance needs to
match the near (or far) lines on the mounting guide.

This could also simplify the mounting guide as (minimally) it could be
a horizontal line and two vertical lines.

Does this sound like it would work?

--
Brian Reynolds | "It's just like flying a spaceship.
reynolds@panix.com | You push some buttons and see
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/ | what happens." -- Zapp Brannigan
NAR# 54438 |
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-18 11:45:07
From: coronet3d

The person best able to answer your question, Chuck Holzer, is unfortunately no long with us.  He was a treasure trove of this kind of technical information and I miss our e-mail exchages.  What I've thought about doing, which would not involve determining window placement and notch distances, is to place a wire frame in front of the Sputnik, right  at the edge of the image area.  In fact by removing that center piece in the Sputnik film path, the image could be expanded to make room for such a frame.  When mounting I would somehow, and this would be the tricky part, match up the frame to some reference point.  Another approach would be for someone to manufacture a precise double hole punch, which would be similar to the viewmaster hole punch.  And then you would need a mount that precisely placed the film chips.  The original 3D Stereo mounts had plastic guides that you could use to line up the film.  The problem with a manufactured solution is that there clearly isn't that much of a market for MF 3D products.  The fact that the 3dstereo website still shows cardboard mounts available tells me that it isn't worth it to sink $8,000US into a plastic manufacturing die to make MF stereo mounts.  I think this has been discussed before but it's really too bad that 70mm film had died out by the time 3D Stereo introduced their camera.  70mm would have been perfect for MF 3D as something akin to the RBT mounts could have been made.

Steve

Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-18 11:50:59
From: Timo Puhakka

 

.  70mm would have been perfect for MF 3D as something akin to the RBT mounts could have been made.


Not 70mm but 65mm. 70mm is for exhibition prints while the cameras shoot 65mm. I expect that 70mm stocks are tuned for contact printing from 65mm prints.

Timo

Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-18 12:12:56
From: gornitai
Don Lopp recently called me to see if I could make MF mounts on my 3D printer. I haven't tried it yet, but I think I can. It's not the highest resolution printer out there, but it's pretty good. I'll try it soon and let you know. Also, with 3D printing, it's easy to modify the results on your 3D CAD program for special applications...

Larry Heyda
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-18 12:13:33
From: coronet3d

The backs that I've seen for Graflex, Hasselblad, etc. are 70mm.  BTW, there are some cameras that used a spiked wheel to measure the film for frame spacing.  This wheel put dotted lines on the top and bottom of the film.  If something like this could be fitted to a MF 3D camera then those dotted lines could conceivably be used to provide vertical alignment.

Steve

Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-18 12:21:06
From: Timo Puhakka
I stand corrected.

Timo

On 18-Jun-14, at 2:13 PM, coronet3d@yahoo.com [MF3D-group] wrote:

 

The backs that I've seen for Graflex, Hasselblad, etc. are 70mm.  BTW, there are some cameras that used a spiked wheel to measure the film for frame spacing.  This wheel put dotted lines on the top and bottom of the film.  If something like this could be fitted to a MF 3D camera then those dotted lines could conceivably be used to provide vertical alignment.

Steve



Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-18 13:07:01
From: JR
I made a "graticule" (sometimes called a reticle), which has alignment lines, by making a monochrome "registration" transparency with these lines and taping it over my light box.  These can be made photographically on a lithographic film like Kodalith, or now, very easily using transparency material in an inkjet printer.  The actual film image transparencies and mounts can then be aligned to that.  Plastic guide strips taped to the light box assure that both the film image transparencies and the slide mounts are kept perfectly vertically aligned.  At the very minimum, the registration transparency should have lines corresponding to the inside edges of the slide mounts, and both horizontal and vertical center lines.  A simple grid indicating 1/3 frame divisions (for the composition by thirds concept) can be useful.  A series of vertical "hash lines" in different parts of the registration frame can be useful references when determining the amount of lateral displacement that you want.  For MF work, I have found that a one millimeter spacing (10 of them for a total distance of one centimeter) between these indicators is quite useful, since in-between amounts are easily visually interpolated.  You can then shift the left and right images by the appropriate amount according to how much parallax you want between homologous points.  Alternatively, you might want to run a "scale" all the way across, in perhaps three locations (center, top 1/3, and bottom 1/3).  If you do this, I would recommend numbering every centimeter, so that specific lines are not confused, especially important for the relatively large area of MF image pairs.  

JR


On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 12:13 PM, Brian Reynolds mf3d@reynolds.users.panix.com [MF3D-group] <MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

I hate mounting MF3D slides. I will run out of patience for mounting
long before I run out of film, mounts, or sleeves.

I mostly mount to the window, and I have a mounting guide I made years
ago.

It has occurred to me that if I filed notches in the bottom (or top)
edge of the film rail of my Sputnik (similar to the Vs seen on the
edge of Hasselblad film backs) I might be able to mount simply by
lining up the notches with the lines of a mounting guide.

What distance between the notches should I choose? I realize that the
frames will be swapped during mounting, so the final distance needs to
match the near (or far) lines on the mounting guide.

This could also simplify the mounting guide as (minimally) it could be
a horizontal line and two vertical lines.

Does this sound like it would work?

--
Brian Reynolds | "It's just like flying a spaceship.
reynolds@panix.com | You push some buttons and see
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/ | what happens." -- Zapp Brannigan
NAR# 54438 |




--
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-18 13:53:39
From: David Kesner
I guess I don't really understand the problem as I find mounting MF slides extremely easy and relaxing.

David W. Kesner
Boise, Idaho, USA
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-18 16:55:37
From: coronet3d
I have to use a gauge because my eyes are so flexible that I can't really see rotational errors and misalignment.  I can literally drop the chips on a lightbox and fuse the images with my eyes.  35mm mounting with RBT mounts is much easier for me.  I might be off a little but not as much as I could be mounting MF slides without a gauge.
Steve
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-19 18:22:26
From: Don Lopp


 
 I think this has been discussed before but it's really too bad that 70mm film had died out by the time 3D Stereo introduced their camera.  70mm would have been perfect for MF 3D as something akin to the RBT mounts could have been made.

Steve


Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-19 18:58:24
From: Don Lopp

On 6/19/2014 5:20 PM, Don Lopp dlopp@rainier-web.com [MF3D-group] wrote:
 



 
 I think this has been discussed before but it's really too bad that 70mm film had died out by the time 3D Stereo introduced their camera.  70mm would have been perfect for MF 3D as something akin to the RBT mounts could have been made.

Steve

For reasons unknown to me, my rebutal message was not shown.
Hi Steve,
How many MF shooters would approve of the 3D World camera being even heavier if it did include a 70mm film transport system? As Dave Kesner wrote, he enjoyed mounting MF slides, and I believe that Dave has, correctly,  mounted more MF slides than anyone else in our MF community. 

DON


Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-20 07:56:03
From: David W. Kesner
Hello Don,

> As Dave Kesner wrote, he enjoyed mounting MF
> slides, and I believe that Dave has, correctly, mounted more MF slides
> than anyone else in our MF community.

Although I have enjoyed mounting my MF slides I, by no means, have
mounted more than others.

I am saddened to say that I have not taken or mounted a MF slide in quite
a few years. I sold my 3DWorld TL120, but still have, and will never part
with, the wonderful camera you built me based on a Heidoscop lens and
innerards, spliced Isolette roll back, Polaroid viewfinder, and that
custom wooden housing. It is quite a thing to behold!

http://www.dddphotography.com/Heidoscop/

I may now have to get it out and see if I remember how to take a decent
image in one shot without the immediate feedback of digital or the
helping hand of Photoshop *{;-)

Thanks,

David W. Kesner
Boise, Idaho, USA
www.dddphotography.com
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-20 08:07:06
From: Bob Aldridge
On 20/06/2014 14:54, 'David W. Kesner' lists@dddphotography.com [MF3D-group] wrote:
 
I may now have to get it out and see if I remember how to take a decent image in one shot without the immediate feedback of digital or the helping hand of Photoshop *{;-)

I know exactly what you mean! I got my trusty Rolleidoscop out a couple of weeks back and shot a couple of films. Got the results back yesterday. Not disastrous, but probably half a stop underexposed...

I also dusted of my favourite Realist - Ektar lenses, Rochwite polarising filters, used for may years by Paul Wing - at the end of April and took it to the Galapagos Islands. These results look pretty much on the money...

So, now I have to set to and mount up the pairs...

Maybe I'll scan them first (unless that just defeats the whole purpose! :) )

Bob Aldridge
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-20 08:47:39
From: George Themelis
To be honest, I have not shot any film since 2009. But I kept my best film
camera (RBT S1, wrong list? :)) because I know one day (very soon) I will
use them again! Whenever I look at my RBT S1 slides, I cannot help but
admire the quality of the image. This is unmatched by my digital cameras.

George

> I also dusted of my favourite Realist - Ektar lenses, Rochwite polarising
> filters, used for may years by Paul Wing - at the end of April and took it
> to the Galapagos Islands. These results look pretty much on the money...
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-20 08:47:40
From: George Themelis
>> I believe that Dave has, correctly, mounted more MF slides
>> than anyone else in our MF community.

> Although I have enjoyed mounting my MF slides I, by no means, have mounted
> more than others.

I think you missed the key word in Don's posting DrDave: CORRECTLY! You
have mounted CORRECTLY more MF slides than anyone else. Maybe even 35mm
slides. CORRECTLY! Not more slides, but more CORRECTLY (Did I make a
point? :))

George
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-20 08:49:02
From: coronet3d

Hi Bob,

I love my Ektar lenses too, but you know they are thoriated.  Mine put out around 152 cpm.  My geiger counter is a cheaper one so I'm not sure if that's Gamma rays, Alpha particles or beta particles.  I keep the camera in a beta blocking box and I get no reading on the geiger counter outside it.  There was a discussion on this on the StereoRealist group some time ago.

Steve

Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-20 09:11:24
From: Bob Aldridge
On 20/06/2014 15:49, coronet3d@yahoo.com [MF3D-group] wrote:
 

Hi Bob,

I love my Ektar lenses too, but you know they are thoriated.  Mine put out around 152 cpm.  My geiger counter is a cheaper one so I'm not sure if that's Gamma rays, Alpha particles or beta particles.  I keep the camera in a beta blocking box and I get no reading on the geiger counter outside it.  There was a discussion on this on the StereoRealist group some time ago.

Steve

Well, Paul Wing used it for many decades and lived to a pretty good age. I use it only occasionally (I took my Belplasca to China and my RBT to Rome and Northumberland) so I suspect I'll get away with the radiation from the Ektars!

In any case, they don't seem to affect the film living in fairly close proximity and that's only shielded by the thin shutter blades. The Rochwhite polarising filters incorporate a reasonably thich aluminium lens cover...

Bob
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-20 13:00:09
From: Brian Reynolds
coronet3d@yahoo.com [MF3D-group] wrote:
>
> I love my Ektar lenses too, but you know they are thoriated. Mine
> put out around 152 cpm. My geiger counter is a cheaper one so I'm
> not sure if that's Gamma rays, Alpha particles or beta particles. I
> keep the camera in a beta blocking box and I get no reading on the
> geiger counter outside it. There was a discussion on this on the
> StereoRealist group some time ago.

Thorium emits alpha particles on decay. Alpha particles will be
stopped by a few centimeters of air, or a sheet of paper.

--
Brian Reynolds | "It's just like flying a spaceship.
reynolds@panix.com | You push some buttons and see
http://www.panix.com/~reynolds/ | what happens." -- Zapp Brannigan
NAR# 54438 |
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-20 18:45:34
From: Timo Puhakka
I've got 5 rolls back from my summer vacation (3 from my TL120 and a pair of rolls from my Lubitel hyper rig). All exposures were perfect and I will soon mount them.
Digital is an interesting diversion, but I continue to shoot MF film actively as long as I can get film and processing, which is no longer a given thing.

David K., I love that Don Lopp Heidoscope. 

Timo

On 20-Jun-14, at 10:06 AM, Bob Aldridge Bob@Stereoscopy.net [MF3D-group] wrote:

 

On 20/06/2014 14:54, 'David W. Kesner' lists@dddphotography.com [MF3D-group] wrote:
 
I may now have to get it out and see if I remember how to take a decent image in one shot without the immediate feedback of digital or the helping hand of Photoshop *{;-)

I know exactly what you mean! I got my trusty Rolleidoscop out a couple of weeks back and shot a couple of films. Got the results back yesterday. Not disastrous, but probably half a stop underexposed...

I also dusted of my favourite Realist - Ektar lenses, Rochwite polarising filters, used for may years by Paul Wing - at the end of April and took it to the Galapagos Islands. These results look pretty much on the money...

So, now I have to set to and mount up the pairs...

Maybe I'll scan them first (unless that just defeats the whole purpose! :) )

Bob Aldridge


Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-20 19:15:52
From: coronet3d

Hi Brian,

I don't want to argue with you so I would invite anyone's who's interested to research Thorium on their own to see what particles and rays are emitted by it.  I just think users should be aware that the lenses are hot.  Don't get me wrong, they are amazing lenses.

Steve

Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-20 23:49:23
From: Bob
On 21/06/2014 02:15, coronet3d@yahoo.com [MF3D-group] wrote:
 

Hi Brian,

I don't want to argue with you so I would invite anyone's who's interested to research Thorium on their own to see what particles and rays are emitted by it.  I just think users should be aware that the lenses are hot.  Don't get me wrong, they are amazing lenses.

Steve

OK, Steve, but it's not like I'm carrying a chunk of pure Thorium, totally unprotected, around with me all the time, is it?

If I were to use this camera as my only camera, I might get a radioactive dose equivalent to a X-Ray roughly every two years. But I don't. So I'll get the X-Ray dose every decade or longer. I'll live with that. (In both senses...)

Sometimes safety concerns can be over-stated...

Bob
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-21 08:33:36
From: David W. Kesner
Hello George,

> Not more slides, but more CORRECTLY (Did I make a
> point? :))

I guess I have you to thank for that. After sending you my very first
mounted slides so many decades ago only to have you ask me if I even knew
what a stereo window was and then procede to mentor me through to the
stereo mounter I am today!

David W. Kesner
Boise, Idaho, USA
www.dddphotography.com
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-21 10:14:14
From: JR
Medium format 3D can produce some really spectacular images.   However, the film and processing are expensive.   This means that you have to be careful and selective before you shoot.   

A pocketable digital camera can prove to be a very handy tool on an MF film shoot.   Take both the MF stereo camera or rig and the digital camera with you.   Shoot the scene first with the digital, as many times and from as many different angles and camera settings, such as different apertures and shutter speeds, and, of course, stereo bases, as you can.  Then, select the best composition and settings for your MF film shot, which by then you should be able to capture in a single exposure.

JR


On Fri, Jun 20, 2014 at 5:45 PM, Timo Puhakka tpuhakka@ymail.com [MF3D-group] <MF3D-group@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
 

I've got 5 rolls back from my summer vacation (3 from my TL120 and a pair of rolls from my Lubitel hyper rig). All exposures were perfect and I will soon mount them.

Digital is an interesting diversion, but I continue to shoot MF film actively as long as I can get film and processing, which is no longer a given thing.

David K., I love that Don Lopp Heidoscope. 

Timo

On 20-Jun-14, at 10:06 AM, Bob Aldridge Bob@Stereoscopy.net [MF3D-group] wrote:

 

On 20/06/2014 14:54, 'David W. Kesner' lists@dddphotography.com [MF3D-group] wrote:
 
I may now have to get it out and see if I remember how to take a decent image in one shot without the immediate feedback of digital or the helping hand of Photoshop *{;-)

I know exactly what you mean! I got my trusty Rolleidoscop out a couple of weeks back and shot a couple of films. Got the results back yesterday. Not disastrous, but probably half a stop underexposed...

I also dusted of my favourite Realist - Ektar lenses, Rochwite polarising filters, used for may years by Paul Wing - at the end of April and took it to the Galapagos Islands. These results look pretty much on the money...

So, now I have to set to and mount up the pairs...

Maybe I'll scan them first (unless that just defeats the whole purpose! :) )

Bob Aldridge





--
Subject: Re: Frame marks for mounting
Date: 2014-06-24 07:35:34
From: coronet3d

Hi Don, I don't recall 70mm adding all that extra weight.  I have a 70mm back for my Graflex XL which allowed you to take fifty 6x9 images and it weighs about the same as my other 6x9 backs.  Of course, this discussion is purely academic since 70mm film was near death at the time the 3D World camera was marketed.  Had it been produced in the late 60s early 70s, 70mm would have been a viable and desirable alternative.

Steve