I started noticing black things along the edges and in the corners of my Sputnik images, , and realized that the flocking that had been applied to the inside was coming loose, just enough to let it curl up 1/8" or so and into the frame.  It's still well-attached somewhere, but near the film plane, nothing is holding it down flat.

The simple solution seems to be running some liquid adhesive in there, I'm wondering if anybody has any suggestions what would be best to use. I guess CA will work, but maybe there's something better.

The flocking was applied by the previous owner, so I don't know what was used originally.

> I started noticing black things along the edges and in the corners of my Sputnik images, , and realized that the flocking that had been applied to the inside was coming loose, just enough to let it curl up 1/8" or so and into the frame. It's still well-attached somewhere, but near the film plane, nothing is holding it down flat.
>
> The simple solution seems to be running some liquid adhesive in there, I'm wondering if anybody has any suggestions what would be best to use. I guess CA will work, but maybe there's something better.

> http://www.eksuccessbrands.com/ektools/Products/ZIG_2-Way_Glue_Pen__Chisel_Tip_55-00012.htm

> http://www.scotchbrand.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/ScotchBrand/Scotch/Products/Catalog/~/Scotch-Double-Sided-Tape-Dispensered-Rolls?N=4335+7578040+3294603620&rt=rud

> The flocking was applied by the previous owner, so I don't know what was used originally.

> The double-stick tape might be worth a try, and I'll check out the Zig. I have some 568 PMA, but there might not be any good way to apply it in that spot.

> I have to say, whoever tweaked this camera did a good job. I used to have a TL-120 but this is clearly sharper and has better contrast.

 

Thanks, I didn't think CA would be a good idea, but it was all I could think of.  

The double-stick tape might be worth a try, and I'll check out the Zig. I have some 568 PMA, but there might not be any good way to apply it in that spot.

I have to say, whoever tweaked this camera did a good job.  I used to have a TL-120 but this is clearly sharper and has better contrast.

What the flash sync speed of the TL120?

Steve

3-element lenses have a tendency to be contrasty - that's why I used to use low contrast film in my Sputnik (e.g. Astia, T-Max).  Greater contrast, I'm told, can make an image "appear" sharper while tests with a chart might contradict that assessment.

Steve

> What the flash sync speed of the TL120?

On 7/13/2015 7:31 PM, karambelas@gmail.com [MF3D-group] wrote:
...
>
> My TL-120 was very prone to flare, and I usually didn't use the hoods
> because of the way they froze the focusing.

I agree that the three-square hood 3D-World offered was junk. I think I
still have one in a drawer some where. I wonder why I'm keeping it.
I use a pair of screw-on hoods. I generally transport my camera to the
field with its stock one-piece lens cap. The camera travels in a canvas
drawstring bag inside my pack.

When I decide where I'm going to work, I install a pair of hoods with
their own snap-on caps and put another snap-on cap on the finder lens. I
can then un-cap the finder to try out compositions without exposing my
taking lenses to salt, sand, and rain. The only difficulty is
remembering to uncap the taking lenses prior to tripping the shutter!
This happens less now that I have them connected to each other by a long
yellow string. If that string isn't hanging from the tripod, I'm not
ready to strip the shutter.

I do recall doing some sleuthing into flare in my TL120-1s. As I recall,
it was present in the left lens with strong backlighting. I'd have to
check my notes, but I think I decided that it was a non-issue with the
hoods and apertures I was going to be using.

But we have strayed far from your original question. Good luck with the
flocking repair. Please report back on your success so we'll have
something in the archives for the next person.

--
John Thurston
Juneau, Alaska

> With regards to the Mamiya 7s - I'm curious why an MF3D shooter wouldn't be more interested in twinning Mamiya 6s. I don't know of any slide mounts or viewers designed for 6X7s, and I find I have plenty of cropping flexibility mounting 6X6s in standard cardboard mounts.

> "The show was shot with my 6x7cm MF stereo camera with 43mm lenses. The film was mounted in Wess 701 slide mounts which are cropped to a 2.2:1 aspect ratio (67.5x31mm). I projected with the Goetschmann projectors from 56 feet with 250mm lenses on the 7x21 foot NSA screen, so I filled about 73% of the screen. The projectors have 6000 lumens for 6x7 slides, so the images were reasonably bright."

 

3-element lenses have a tendency to be contrasty - that's why I used to use low contrast film in my Sputnik (e.g. Astia, T-Max).  Greater contrast, I'm told, can make an image "appear" sharper while tests with a chart might contradict that assessment.

Steve