The "Hyperfocal distance" is the distance that you set on the focussing scale so that infinity will be sharp, but you also get the closest distance sharp as is poossible for the aperture that you are using. So the Hyperfocal distance is different for each aperture.

There will be less effective depth of field for the 80mm lens on a MF Sputnik as opposed to e.g. the 37.45mm lens on a 35mm Belplasca, so the Sputnik has to use f16 to cover most situations, whilst the 35mm camera can get away with the lens wider open (and digital compacts with their tiny sensors and equivalent short lenses hardly need to be stopped down at all! :-) )

Effectively, I tend to set my cameras with a "snapshot" set of settings. So, in bright sunshine with 100ASA film, I'll set the shutter speed to 1/100 and the aperture at f16. The focus gets set at 6.5 metres for the Sputnik.

Now, unless the light changes dramatically, I can shoot everything without changing any setting, provided that nothing is closer than 3.2 metres (or further than infinity - which, of course, is unlikely :-) )

This really cuts down the thinking needed when shooting, allowing you to concentrate on compostition.

On the rare occasions when the foreground is unavoidably closer than 3.2 metres you can set the focus slightly closer at the expense of infinity sharpness.

Oh, and don't forget the single most useful accessory for MF photography - a tripod! It really allows you to study the scene that you are photographing - and notice that bit of litter or other intrusion that will ruin the shot!

Bob Aldridge

 

I thought I'd simply divide the questions in two posts.

I see the charts saying that at f16 the hyper focal is at 6.5 meters and near limit at 3.2 meters.
Why is it important to know the hyperfocal when I know the near limit is at 3.2 and goes on to infinity?
Please excuse my ignorance, I'm trying to learn. : )


Also #1,

At which aperture does the Sputnik really shine and which should you avoid for a newbie amateur like me?


Also #2,
Which of these two Sputnik charts would you consider the most reliable?
Original manual ( http://www.rmm3d.com/3d.encyclopedia/manuals/sputnik/sputnik.html )

Or the one from Kryptosinistographer ( http://www.kryptosinistographer.com/2008/03/retrofitting-my.html )

See attachements for the charts alone.



I'm really narrowing in on taking some actual stereo photos, and I'm really excited about it!
Got myself a bunch of Provia 100 rolls.


With kind regards,
Jesper

It means that someone has (perhaps) accurately measured the shutter speeds on your camera and these were the results.

So, if you set 1/100 on the dial the shutter will probably be open for 1/67 th of a second - about half a stop too much exposure... If you trust the sticker!

If I were testing a venerable camera like the Sputnik I would be "bracketing" exposures and taking notes so I can see what the final results look like. After all, they didn't calibrate the apertures, did they? :-)

Bob Aldridge

 

Another question,

Someone put this sticker on my Sputnik.

What could this mean?

(See picture)

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Den tisdag, juni 19, 2018, 13:08, skrev Bob Aldridge Bob@Stereoscopy.net [MF3D-group] :

 

The "Hyperfocal distance" is the distance that you set on the focussing scale so that infinity will be sharp, but you also get the closest distance sharp as is poossible for the aperture that you are using. So the Hyperfocal distance is different for each aperture.

There will be less effective depth of field for the 80mm lens on a MF Sputnik as opposed to e.g. the 37.45mm lens on a 35mm Belplasca, so the Sputnik has to use f16 to cover most situations, whilst the 35mm camera can get away with the lens wider open (and digital compacts with their tiny sensors and equivalent short lenses hardly need to be stopped down at all! :-) )

Effectively, I tend to set my cameras with a "snapshot" set of settings. So, in bright sunshine with 100ASA film, I'll set the shutter speed to 1/100 and the aperture at f16. The focus gets set at 6.5 metres for the Sputnik.

Now, unless the light changes dramatically, I can shoot everything without changing any setting, provided that nothing is closer than 3.2 metres (or further than infinity - which, of course, is unlikely :-) )

This really cuts down the thinking needed when shooting, allowing you to concentrate on compostition.

On the rare occasions when the foreground is unavoidably closer than 3.2 metres you can set the focus slightly closer at the expense of infinity sharpness.

Oh, and don't forget the single most useful accessory for MF photography - a tripod! It really allows you to study the scene that you are photographing - and notice that bit of litter or other intrusion that will ruin the shot!

Bob Aldridge

On 19/06/2018 11:39, jeppeln@yahoo.com [MF3D-group] wrote:

 

I thought I'd simply divide the questions in two posts.

I see the charts saying that at f16 the hyper focal is at 6.5 meters and near limit at 3.2 meters.
Why is it important to know the hyperfocal when I know the near limit is at 3.2 and goes on to infinity?
Please excuse my ignorance, I'm trying to learn. : )


Also #1,

At which aperture does the Sputnik really shine and which should you avoid for a newbie amateur like me?


Also #2,
Which of these two Sputnik charts would you consider the most reliable?
Original manual ( http://www.rmm3d.com/3d.encyclopedia/manuals/sputnik/sputnik.html )

Or the one from Kryptosinistographer ( http://www.kryptosinistographer.com/2008/03/retrofitting-my.html )

See attachements for the charts alone.



I'm really narrowing in on taking some actual stereo photos, and I'm really excited about it!
Got myself a bunch of Provia 100 rolls.


With kind regards,
Jesper

Right now I'm about 1000 miles from my Sputnik, so I cannot look at it. But you DO NOT focus at infinity! If you do that you will have a "depth of field" (the range that is acceptably sharp) from infinity to the hyperfocal distnce for the aperture in use. To maximise the range of distances that will be acceptably sharp you must focus on the hyperfocal distance.  If the Sputnik has a "Depth of field scale" (the few pictures that I've found online suggest that it doesn't) if you were using f16, you would set infinity to the "16" on one side of the scale and read off the closest distance on the other side. Google "depth of field scale" to see some examples...

Bob Aldridge

 

Thanks Bob!

Question:

So for snapshot-mode at f16, I should set the viewing lens at 6.5 meters (is that the red dented dot?)

Or do I set it at the infinity mark? (All the way 'til the lens maxes out and can't be moved any further).


All the best,

Jesper

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Den tisdag, juni 19, 2018, 13:08, skrev Bob Aldridge Bob@Stereoscopy.net [MF3D-group] :

 

The "Hyperfocal distance" is the distance that you set on the focussing scale so that infinity will be sharp, but you also get the closest distance sharp as is poossible for the aperture that you are using. So the Hyperfocal distance is different for each aperture.

There will be less effective depth of field for the 80mm lens on a MF Sputnik as opposed to e.g. the 37.45mm lens on a 35mm Belplasca, so the Sputnik has to use f16 to cover most situations, whilst the 35mm camera can get away with the lens wider open (and digital compacts with their tiny sensors and equivalent short lenses hardly need to be stopped down at all! :-) )

Effectively, I tend to set my cameras with a "snapshot" set of settings. So, in bright sunshine with 100ASA film, I'll set the shutter speed to 1/100 and the aperture at f16. The focus gets set at 6.5 metres for the Sputnik.

Now, unless the light changes dramatically, I can shoot everything without changing any setting, provided that nothing is closer than 3.2 metres (or further than infinity - which, of course, is unlikely :-) )

This really cuts down the thinking needed when shooting, allowing you to concentrate on compostition.

On the rare occasions when the foreground is unavoidably closer than 3.2 metres you can set the focus slightly closer at the expense of infinity sharpness.

Oh, and don't forget the single most useful accessory for MF photography - a tripod! It really allows you to study the scene that you are photographing - and notice that bit of litter or other intrusion that will ruin the shot!

Bob Aldridge

On 19/06/2018 11:39, jeppeln@yahoo.com [MF3D-group] wrote:

 

I thought I'd simply divide the questions in two posts.

I see the charts saying that at f16 the hyper focal is at 6.5 meters and near limit at 3.2 meters.
Why is it important to know the hyperfocal when I know the near limit is at 3.2 and goes on to infinity?
Please excuse my ignorance, I'm trying to learn. : )


Also #1,

At which aperture does the Sputnik really shine and which should you avoid for a newbie amateur like me?


Also #2,
Which of these two Sputnik charts would you consider the most reliable?
Original manual ( http://www.rmm3d.com/3d.encyclopedia/manuals/sputnik/sputnik.html )

Or the one from Kryptosinistographer ( http://www.kryptosinistographer.com/2008/03/retrofitting-my.html )

See attachements for the charts alone.



I'm really narrowing in on taking some actual stereo photos, and I'm really excited about it!
Got myself a bunch of Provia 100 rolls.


With kind regards,
Jesper

Den tisdag, juni 19, 2018, 14:08, skrev Bob Aldridge Bob@Stereoscopy.net [MF3D-group] :

 

Right now I'm about 1000 miles from my Sputnik, so I cannot look at it. But you DO NOT focus at infinity! If you do that you will have a "depth of field" (the range that is acceptably sharp) from infinity to the hyperfocal distnce for the aperture in use. To maximise the range of distances that will be acceptably sharp you must focus on the hyperfocal distance.  If the Sputnik has a "Depth of field scale" (the few pictures that I've found online suggest that it doesn't) if you were using f16, you would set infinity to the "16" on one side of the scale and read off the closest distance on the other side. Google "depth of field scale" to see some examples...

Bob Aldridge

On 19/06/2018 13:27, Jesper BE jeppeln@yahoo.com [MF3D-group] wrote:

 

Thanks Bob!

Question:

So for snapshot-mode at f16, I should set the viewing lens at 6.5 meters (is that the red dented dot?)

Or do I set it at the infinity mark? (All the way 'til the lens maxes out and can't be moved any further).


All the best,

Jesper

Skickat från Yahoo Mail för iPhone

Den tisdag, juni 19, 2018, 13:08, skrev Bob Aldridge Bob@Stereoscopy.net [MF3D-group] :

 

The "Hyperfocal distance" is the distance that you set on the focussing scale so that infinity will be sharp, but you also get the closest distance sharp as is poossible for the aperture that you are using. So the Hyperfocal distance is different for each aperture.

There will be less effective depth of field for the 80mm lens on a MF Sputnik as opposed to e.g. the 37.45mm lens on a 35mm Belplasca, so the Sputnik has to use f16 to cover most situations, whilst the 35mm camera can get away with the lens wider open (and digital compacts with their tiny sensors and equivalent short lenses hardly need to be stopped down at all! :-) )

Effectively, I tend to set my cameras with a "snapshot" set of settings. So, in bright sunshine with 100ASA film, I'll set the shutter speed to 1/100 and the aperture at f16. The focus gets set at 6.5 metres for the Sputnik.

Now, unless the light changes dramatically, I can shoot everything without changing any setting, provided that nothing is closer than 3.2 metres (or further than infinity - which, of course, is unlikely :-) )

This really cuts down the thinking needed when shooting, allowing you to concentrate on compostition.

On the rare occasions when the foreground is unavoidably closer than 3.2 metres you can set the focus slightly closer at the expense of infinity sharpness.

Oh, and don't forget the single most useful accessory for MF photography - a tripod! It really allows you to study the scene that you are photographing - and notice that bit of litter or other intrusion that will ruin the shot!

Bob Aldridge

On 19/06/2018 11:39, jeppeln@yahoo.com [MF3D-group] wrote:

 

I thought I'd simply divide the questions in two posts.

I see the charts saying that at f16 the hyper focal is at 6.5 meters and near limit at 3.2 meters.
Why is it important to know the hyperfocal when I know the near limit is at 3.2 and goes on to infinity?
Please excuse my ignorance, I'm trying to learn. : )


Also #1,

At which aperture does the Sputnik really shine and which should you avoid for a newbie amateur like me?


Also #2,
Which of these two Sputnik charts would you consider the most reliable?
Original manual ( http://www.rmm3d.com/3d.encyclopedia/manuals/sputnik/sputnik.html )

Or the one from Kryptosinistographer ( http://www.kryptosinistographer.com/2008/03/retrofitting-my.html )

See attachements for the charts alone.



I'm really narrowing in on taking some actual stereo photos, and I'm really excited about it!
Got myself a bunch of Provia 100 rolls.


With kind regards,
Jesper

> Is this difference normal for the Sputnik?

Your camera was made at least 50 years ago! And you don't know if every shutter test yielded the exact same result or if that label gives an average - or even if it's the results on a friends's Sputnik!

I would be using several available settings to give exposures equivalent (on a sunny day) to 1/100 at f16, 1/200 at f16 and 1/50 at f16 and then see which exposure was the most pleasing. Of course, the fastest shutter speed is (nominally) 1/100, so you're going to have to use f22 instead of 1/200.

The reason for this is that when the Sputnik was designed films were much less sensitive than now. You may find yourself using 50ASA film - if you can find it. But I would probably use f22 for my tests instead of f16, so 1/100, 1/50 and 1/25 for the shutter speeds. I would leave the focussing as if it was for f16, but you can choose to focus a bit closer and risk slightly soft infinity focus, of course.

Bob Aldridge

 

Oh, that's quite the difference.

I was planning to use the 1/100 on 100iso/asa film.

Is this difference normal for the Sputnik?

I'm thinking I will take double photos, one with 1/67 and one with 1/100 and see how they turn out. :)

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Den tisdag, juni 19, 2018, 13:46, skrev Bob Aldridge Bob@Stereoscopy.net [MF3D-group] :

 

It means that someone has (perhaps) accurately measured the shutter speeds on your camera and these were the results.

So, if you set 1/100 on the dial the shutter will probably be open for 1/67 th of a second - about half a stop too much exposure... If you trust the sticker!

If I were testing a venerable camera like the Sputnik I would be "bracketing" exposures and taking notes so I can see what the final results look like. After all, they didn't calibrate the apertures, did they? :-)

Bob Aldridge

On 19/06/2018 13:29, Jesper BE jeppeln@yahoo.com [MF3D-group] wrote:

 

Another question,

Someone put this sticker on my Sputnik.

What could this mean?

(See picture)

Skickat från Yahoo Mail för iPhone

Den tisdag, juni 19, 2018, 13:08, skrev Bob Aldridge Bob@Stereoscopy.net [MF3D-group] :

 

The "Hyperfocal distance" is the distance that you set on the focussing scale so that infinity will be sharp, but you also get the closest distance sharp as is poossible for the aperture that you are using. So the Hyperfocal distance is different for each aperture.

There will be less effective depth of field for the 80mm lens on a MF Sputnik as opposed to e.g. the 37.45mm lens on a 35mm Belplasca, so the Sputnik has to use f16 to cover most situations, whilst the 35mm camera can get away with the lens wider open (and digital compacts with their tiny sensors and equivalent short lenses hardly need to be stopped down at all! :-) )

Effectively, I tend to set my cameras with a "snapshot" set of settings. So, in bright sunshine with 100ASA film, I'll set the shutter speed to 1/100 and the aperture at f16. The focus gets set at 6.5 metres for the Sputnik.

Now, unless the light changes dramatically, I can shoot everything without changing any setting, provided that nothing is closer than 3.2 metres (or further than infinity - which, of course, is unlikely :-) )

This really cuts down the thinking needed when shooting, allowing you to concentrate on compostition.

On the rare occasions when the foreground is unavoidably closer than 3.2 metres you can set the focus slightly closer at the expense of infinity sharpness.

Oh, and don't forget the single most useful accessory for MF photography - a tripod! It really allows you to study the scene that you are photographing - and notice that bit of litter or other intrusion that will ruin the shot!

Bob Aldridge

On 19/06/2018 11:39, jeppeln@yahoo.com [MF3D-group] wrote:

 

I thought I'd simply divide the questions in two posts.

I see the charts saying that at f16 the hyper focal is at 6.5 meters and near limit at 3.2 meters.
Why is it important to know the hyperfocal when I know the near limit is at 3.2 and goes on to infinity?
Please excuse my ignorance, I'm trying to learn. : )


Also #1,

At which aperture does the Sputnik really shine and which should you avoid for a newbie amateur like me?


Also #2,
Which of these two Sputnik charts would you consider the most reliable?
Original manual ( http://www.rmm3d.com/3d.encyclopedia/manuals/sputnik/sputnik.html )

Or the one from Kryptosinistographer ( http://www.kryptosinistographer.com/2008/03/retrofitting-my.html )

See attachements for the charts alone.



I'm really narrowing in on taking some actual stereo photos, and I'm really excited about it!
Got myself a bunch of Provia 100 rolls.


With kind regards,
Jesper

Den tisdag, juni 19, 2018, 14:41, skrev efbaskin@hotmail.com [MF3D-group] :

 

> Is this difference normal for the Sputnik?

Yes, that's normal. Sputnik shutter speeds vary from one camera to another, and they rarely achieve that 1/100 sec speed. Typically, they max out at 1/80 or 1/90 sec. Most are reasonably accurate at the slower speeds.

Take some photos!